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OLD PROVIDENCE 



©lit 

PROVIDENCE 

4» 

A Collection of Facts and Tra- 
ditions relating to Various 
Buildings and Sites of 
Historic Interest 
in Providence 







With Illustrations 



'Printed for 

The Merchants National Bank 

Of Providence 

$robibence, &f)obe 3telanb 

TO COMMEMORATE ITS CENTENARY 
I 9 l8 



FS1 



Copyright, 1918 

BY 

THE MERCHANTS NATIONAL BANK OF PROVIDENCE 



©CI.A4977S51 

C mpiled, arranged and printed by direction of 

Walton Advertising \3 Printing Company 
Boston, Mass. 



M |3l9ld 



— vv^ 



introduction 



THE century mark is a notable period in the history of a bank. 
Because this is so, and because Providence is rich in history 
and tradition, The Merchants National Bank of Providence 
presents Old Providence. The object in publishing this bro- 
chure has been threefold. Aside from the personal interest which the 
Bank has in marking the hundredth anniversary of its history, the city 
of Providence itself has been considered, and the purpose kept in view 
of giving credit to it where credit is due. The patrons of the Bank, 
it was thought, would appreciate the memorial; and other readers 
throughout the country have also been considered, — readers who take 
pride in the traditions and early history of New England. Old Provi- 
dence is by no means intended to be the first and last word on the 
subject. It may do its part if it paves the way to a more extensive 
treatment of the material. The data have been made as nearly cor- 
rect as the disagreement of historians and the various traditions have 
allowed. 

In commemorating this century of notable service, some facts con- 
cerning the history of the Bank may be of interest. The constitution 
of The Merchants Bank was adopted February 10, 1818, it received 
its charter as a state bank eight days later, and business was com- 
menced May 20 of the same year. The first directors were William 
Richmond, 2d, Andrew Taylor, Gravener Taft, Peleg Rhodes, Truman 
Beckwith, Samuel N. Richmond, Randolph Chandler, Stephen H. 
Smith, Joshua B. Wood, Charles Potter, George S. Rathbone, Charles 
S. Bowler, Nathan Tingley. 

The Bowen estate, east of the Market House, was purchased in 
May, 1818, by The Merchants Bank. In April, 1824, a brick store at 
No. 6 Market Street, west of the Union building, was purchased, and 
on February 27, 1827, it was voted that "arrangements be made to 
have the Bank removed to the north-west end of the Union building 
as soon as it is practicable- — to be located on the lower floor." After 
the appointment on January 15, 1855, of L. P. Child and S. N. Rich- 
mond as a committee on "building, or altering the building," a special 
meeting was called the following March to consider the erection of a 
new structure. In the same month, Sampson & Angell were appointed 
the carpenters to superintend the work, and S. Mauran, 2d, was added 
to the Committee on Construction. F. P. Durfee was given the ma- 



INTRODUCTION 



sonic work. Morse & Hall were the architects. The Fall River 
Iron Works building was occupied by The Merchants Bank while the 
new building was being erected. This third home, at 20 Westminster 
Street, the Bank occupies at the present time. 

The capital stock of the Bank in 1818 was $300,000, divided 
into shares of $50, payable in specie. In 1850 the capital stock 
was increased to $1,000,000, at which sum it has ever since re- 
mained. 

It was voted, January 21, 1837, to "accept in behalf of said Bank 
our proportion of Public Money in Deposit under the provisions of 
the act of the general assembly passed in October last entitled: 'An 
act to provide for the disposition of our proportion of the money of 
the United States to be deposited with the state, by virtue of an 
act of congress entitled — an act to regulate the deposits of the public 
money approved June 23, 1836, and to provide for the appropriation 
of the interest arising from said money.' ' For many years, in con- 
junction with the National Bank of North America, The Merchants 
National Bank was a clearing-house. It was for some time the sole 
depositary of the city of Providence. 

The Merchants National Bank, during the century of its exist- 
ence, has had five presidents. Of these executives, the longest in 
office was ex-Governor Royal C. Taft, who was president for more 
than forty years. Mr. Taft began his administration not long 
after the close of the Civil War, and from 1868 — year by year — 
he watched the growth of the Bank, and, in passing on, left it in 
fine shape for the new century which was shortly to dawn on 
its history. 

Mr. Taft died in Providence on Tuesday, June 4, 1912, in his 
ninetieth year. 

Quoting from a former publication: "The Merchants Bank was 
established by representative business men of the time." One familiar 
with the history of Rhode Island by looking through the list of names 
of men who have served this bank as directors for the past century 
will find that those who succeeded the first board of directors were 
also representative men of their time, men very closely identified 
with the manufacturing and commercial interests of the city and 
State. 

The Merchants Bank was reorganized as a national bank, April 24, 
1865; its corporate existence was extended, April 24, 1885, and re- 
extended, April 24, 1905. Its history in figures to April 24, 1905, 
the date of the last extension of its corporate existence, and February 



INTRODUCTION 



18, 1918, one hundred years from the date that it received its charter 
as a state bank, follows: 



May 20, 1818 

Oct. 10, 1821 

April 1, 1824 

April 24, 1865 

April 18, 1866 

April 24, 1885 

April 24, 1905 



Capital paid in Surplus Undivided Profits Deposits 

£18,542.50 $2,935.69 

300,000.00 79,117.11 

500,000.00 78,064.76 

939,450.00 423,087.23 

1,000,000.00 $10,400.00 506,847.10 

1,000,000.00 200,000.00 $26,861.56 1,854,305.23 

1,000,000.00 200,000.00 362,692.61 3,975,701.41 



Feb. 18, 1918 . . . 1,000,000.00 750,000.00 438,137.10 8,916,915.00 
Total resources Feb. 18, 1918 $12,669,554.46 

As a state or national bank it has never passed a dividend, and has 
never paid less than six per cent to its stockholders in any year. Its 
surplus and undivided profits have been earned, not paid in by the 
stockholders, or increased by consolidation with any other institution. 




-8 inches long- - j^gg 




From a photograph 

THE MERCHANTS NATIONAL RANK OF PROVIDENCE 



OFFICERS OF THE BANK, 1818-1918 

Presidents 

WILLIAM RICHMOND, 20 1818-1850 

JOSIAH CHAPIN 1850-1868 

ROYAL C. TAFT 1868-1908 

EDWARD D. PEARCE 1908-1909 

ROBERT W. TAFT 1909- 



V ice-Presidents 

SAMUEL R. DORRANCE 1902 1909 

HORATIO N. CAMPBELL 1910-1915 

CHARLES H. NEWELL 1917- 

MOSES I. BARBER 1917- 



Cashiers 

JAMES WHEELOCK 1818-1836 

HENRY E. HUDSON 1836-1840 

HENRY P. KNIGHT 1840-1846 

WILLIAM B. BURDICK 1846-1852 

AUGUSTUS M. TOWER 1852-1856 

CHARLES T. ROBBINS 1856-1868 

JOHN W. VERNON 1868-1902 

MOSES J. BARBER 1902-1918 

FRANK A. GREENE 1918- 



Assistant Cashiers 

xMOSES J. BARBER 1894-1902 

FRANK A. GREENE 1903-1918 

WILLARD I. ANGELL 1918- 

HARRY S. HATHAWAY 1918- 



OFFICERS OF THE MERCHANTS NATIONAL BANK, 191 8 

ROBERT W. TAFT, President 
CHARLES H. NEWELL, Vice-President 
MOSES J. BARBER, Vice-President 
FRANK A. GREENE, Cashier 
WILLARD I. ANGELL, Assistant Cashier 
HARRY S. HATHAWAY, Assistant Cashier 



ROLL CALL OF DIRECTORS, 1818-1918 



WILLIAM RICHMOND, 2d 
ANDREW TAYLOR . . . 
GRAVENER TAFT . . . 
PELEG RHODES .... 
TRUMAN BECKWITH . 
SAMUEL N. RICHMOND 
RANDOLPH CHANDLER 
STEPHEN H. SMITH . . 
JOSHUA B. WOOD . . . 
CHARLES POTTER . 
GEORGE S. RATHBONE 
CHARLES S. BOWLER . 
NATHAN TINGLEY . . 
WALKER HUMPHREY . 
JOSIAH CHAPIN .... 
CHARLES C. HOLDEN . 
CARLO MAURAN . . . 
THOMAS C. HOPPIN . . 
THOMAS BURGESS . . 
CHARLES HOLDEN . . 
JOSHUA MAURAN . . . 
SAMUEL B. MUMFORD 
WILLIAM COMSTOCK . 
JOSEPH WHEELOCK . . 
JOSIAH KEENE .... 
WILLIAM T. DORRANCE 
SUCHET MAURAN, 2d . 
GEORGE M. RICHMOND 
RICHARD C. MARTIN . 
AUGUSTUS C. MAURAN 
CHARLES F. TILLINGHAST 



818 



8 
9 

9 

820 



821 
824 
824 
828 
828 
833 
837 
837 
842 
842 
845 
847 
850 



LEWIS P. CHILD 

SAMUEL N. RICHMOND, Jr 
ALLEN BROWN . 
MATHEW WATSON 
THOMAS BURGESS 
C. A. WHITMAN . 
ROYAL C. TAFT . 
FRANK MAURAN 
CHRISTOPHER A. WHITMAN 
FRANK E. RICHMOND . 
CHARLES MORRIS SMITH 
WILLIAM CORLISS . . . 
SAMUEL R. DORRANCE . 
JOHN W. DANIELSON . . 
EDWARD D. PEARCE, Jr. 
HORATIO N. CAMPBELL 
FREDERIC C. SAYLES . . 
GEORGE M. SMITH . . . 
LUCIAN SHARPE .... 
HORATIO N. CAMPBELL, Jr 
FREDERIC C. SAYLES, Jr. 
ROBERT W. TAFT . . 
HERBERT J. WELLS . 
CHARLES H. NEWELL 
WILLIAM B. McBEE . 
ROWLAND HAZARD . 
ARTHUR L. KELLEY 
EVERETT L. SPENCER 
MOSES J. BARBER . . 
FRANK E. RICHMOND, 2d 
EDWARD P. JASTRAM 



903 



PRESENT DIRECTORS 



SAMUEL R. DORRANCE 
GEORGE M. SMITH 
HORATIO N. CAMPBELL 
ROBERT W. TAFT 
CHARLES H. NEWELL 



WILLIAM B. MfcBEE 
EVERETT L. SPENCER 
MOSES J. BARBER 
FRANK E. RICHMOND, 20 
EDWARD P. JASTRAM 



TABLE OF CONTENTS 

PAGE 

Introduction v 

The Williams Homestead I 

The Roger Mowry House 3 

The Betsey Williams Cottage 4 

The Old Town House 6 

Turk's Head 8 

The Sign of "Shakespear's Head" in Gaol Lane 10 

The Sabin Tavern 11 

The Market House 15 

The Stephen Hopkins House 17 

The Esek Hopkins House 18 

University Hall and first President's House 21 

The Baptist Church 24 

"An old New England Meeting House" 26 

The Mansion House 28 

The Old State House 30 

The John Brown House 32 

The Joseph Brown House 34 

The John Carter Brown House 35 

The Ives House 37 

The Truman Beckwith House 38 

The Stimson-Diman House 40 

The Athenaeum 42 

The Edward Dexter House 44 

The Halsey Mansion 46 

The Arcade 48 

The Greene Street School 50 

The Auton House 51 

The Sullivan Dorr House 54 

Old Howard Hall 5 6 

The Whitman House 57 

Hope College 59 

The Hoppin Mansion 60 




m 0lh ^robttrente h 

THE WILLIAMS HOMESTEAD 

"Our sires drank from this living stream 
Two hundred years ago, 
And, from its fountain, water clear 

Continues yet to flow. 
We have a rich and noble theme, 

Fit for a Prince or King, 
'Tis water pure, and fresh and good, 
From Roger Williams Spring." 
Sung at a dinner given in Providence. July ./, 1838. 

Banished from Salem because of alleged dangerous opinions against 
the authority of the magistrates there, Roger Williams in 1636 was 
"sorely tossed for one fourteen weeks, in a bitter winter season, not 
knowing what bed or bread did mean." He fled through the forest 
to an Indian lodge, where Massasoit, whom he had known in the 
Plymouth Colony, gave him shelter and protection. The aged chief 
granted his exile-guest land on the eastern side of the Seekonk River. 
There in April, 1636, Roger Williams, and four companions who had 
pushed on from the Plymouth Colony to join him, began to build a 
house. They also planted a crop of grain, which was never harvested; 
for Roger Williams found himself still within the limits, and within 
reach of the long arm of the law, of the colony from which he was 



Old Providence 



banished, and he was advised by Governor Winslow, his friend, to 
"remove to the other side of the water." This the exile and his 
companions hastened to do. They made their way to "Slate Rock," 
which is said to have been within the present limits of what is now 
Roger Williams Square in Providence. Tradition has it that an 
Indian on a hill near the rock called out to Williams, "What cheerj 
netop?" ("How are you, friend?") Williams and his party skirted 
the banks of the "great salt river," and in a cove a little below and 
west of the present site of St. John's Church they saw a spring. Near 
this they landed, and Roger Williams began his settlement. He 
called the place Providence "in commemoration of God's providence 
to him in his distress." "I desired," he said, "it might be for a 
shelter for persons distressed for conscience." And Providence ful- 
filled the destiny marked out for it by its noted founder. 

At the present time the place which is closely associated with the 
man who named the city is a building (242 North Main Street) on 
which the State of Rhode Island has placed a tablet bearing the fol-'' 
lowing inscription: "Under this house flows the Roger Williams 
Spring." The first houses of the settlement were clustered around 
this "fountain." They were probably crude, temporary shelters; 
for it was summer when the little colony was planted, and the people 
lived out of doors. As autumn approached and the foliage of the 
trees bordering the paths that led to the spring began to turn yellow 
and scarlet from the first tinge of frost, undoubtedly more substantial 
shelters were built, — log huts, perhaps of one room, with fireplace 
on the side. The land had been purchased by Williams from Ca- 
nonicus and Miantinomi, and the grant was made by the Indians 
"in consideration of the many kindnesses and services he [Williams] 
hath continually done us." Home lots were granted to fifty-four 
settlers, — lots extending from the "towne street" (now North and 
South Main Streets) as far east as Hope Street. 

Roger Williams built his house near the northeast corner of North 
Main and Howland Streets. Of this dwelling, which stood possibly 
eighty feet from the main thoroughfare, little is known. In 1906 
a tablet was placed by the State of Rhode Island on the house at 
the northeast corner of the streets named, which was judged, after 
careful investigation, to be the point nearest the Williams homestead. 
Probably Mr. Williams's eldest son, said to be the first male child of 
English parents in Rhode Island, was born under its roof in the autumn 
of 1638. Roger Williams called his boy Providence. As the founder's 
declining years were passed, in the midst of his children and grand- 
children, "by the fireside" of Daniel, his son, who lived at the south 
end of the "towne street," it is assumed that the Williams house had 
been burned or otherwise destroyed during one of the frequent Indian 
attacks on the colony. 




Drawn bv Win. 11. Gibson for "Picturesque A 



oil. of R. I. Hist. Soc. 



THE ROGER MOWRY HOUSE 

Where Roger Williams is said to have held Prayer-meetings 

Until 1900 Providence possessed a landmark which bound it very 
closely to the days when Roger Williams lived in the colony and to 
the days of King Philip's War. The Roger Mowry house — in later 
years known as the Abbott house — withstood the disasters which 
befell its neighbors, though eventually it was demolished to give 
place to a modern dwelling on the north side of Abbott Street, at 
No. 30, near the Old North Burying Ground. Five years after it 
was torn down, the ancient elm which stood near the house, and was 
said to have been one of the largest elms in the city, was cut down. 
So passed the sturdy guardian of a dwelling that played no small 
part in the early history of Providence. 

Early records show that Roger Mowry came from Salem some 
time prior to 1650, and that in May, 1655, he was granted a license 
to keep a house of entertainment in Providence. The "ordinarie's 
brew" may have been sipped too often or too long; for in the course 
of the next half-dozen years the Assembly decreed that "no howse 
of entertainment shall suffer any person to tipple after 9 of the clock 
at night, except they give a satisfactory reason to the Constable or 
magistrate." The penalty for disobeying this decree was a fine of 
five shillings for the tavern-keeper and two shillings and sixpence 
for the person who "tippled." 

3 



Old Providence 



Events of interest cluster about the old tavern. When John 
Clawson, a Dutch carpenter, was found dying one cold December 
morning in 1661 from a blow dealt by a broad-axe, at once his mur- 
derer was sought, and finally Waumanitt, an Indian, was charged 
with the crime and taken prisoner. There was apparently much 
difficulty in disposing of him. The charge for irons which the local 
blacksmith forged was considerable for a colony where shillings were 
scarce, and there was no prison in Providence to hold the captive. 
So he was removed to Roger Mowry's tavern, and there kept until 
other disposition was made of him, though exactly what was done 
is not recorded. It is stated that he was sent to Newport, and that 
Landlord Mowry presented his bill for housing Waumanitt. The 
tale went that Clawson, the slain man, had quarrelled violently with 
a neighbor, and that it was this neighbor, Hearndon by name, who 
killed Clawson, by whom he was recognized. It was said that Claw- 
son roused sufficiently before he died to pronounce a curse against 
the Hearndons, — that he hoped they would bear split chins and be 
haunted for the rest of their natural lives by barberry-bushes (near 
a clump of these bushes Clawson was slain); and it is said that split 
chins for generations marked the Hearndons. 

In the one-room house of Roger Mowry the Town Council met. 
" For this daies fireing " and " for house roome " the Town Treasurer was 
directed, January 27, 1657, to pay one shilling and sixpence. There is 
a tradition that Roger Williams held prayer-meetings at Mowry's. 

Ample evidence remains to show that the house was built as early 
as 1653. It was a house of some size; but originally was very small 
with a huge stone chimney, having only the "fire roome," as did the 
other houses of the day, and like them it sloped toward the street. 
At the outer doorway was a big flat stone, which served for a door- 
step. The "fire room" was entered from the street, and was con- 
spicuous for its chimney and great fireplace, occupying nearly one 
side of the house. Near this a steep staircase led to the loft above. 
There has been some conjecture as to why this old tavern was spared 
by the Indians during the attacks on the colony. W 7 hat was spared 
by them was swept away by the growth of the city of Providence, 
and its passing took from the city a landmark of its earliest history. 

THE BETSEY WILLIAMS COTTAGE 

Set in the Midst of Acres owned for Generations by the Williams Family 

Betsey Williams cottage stands in Roger Williams Park on land 
originally owned by the W T illiams family. The woman for whom 
the cottage is named, a descendant of the founder of Providence, 
lived on her farm until her death in 1871, when the estate by pro- 
visions in her will passed to the city of Providence for a public park 




From a photograph 



THE BETSEY WILLIAMS COTTAGE 



on condition that a memorial be erected on the land to her ancestor, 
Roger Williams. Her wishes were carried out, and the statue was 
unveiled in October, 1877. 

The cottage was built by Nathaniel Williams about 1773 for his 
son, James Williams, the father of Betsey. It has been carefully 
preserved, and is one of the show-places of the city. The park of 
one hundred and three acres surrounding it is the largest in Provi- 
dence. This property, situated in the southwestern part of the city, 
was originally owned by Joseph, the youngest son of Roger Williams, 
and remained in possession of the family until Miss Williams gave 
it to the city in 1871, — a period of more than two hundred years. 
Within its limits is the Williams burying-lot, and among the genera- 
tions buried there are the remains of the family of Joseph Williams, 
the tombstone of Joseph bearing testimony to his service in the 
Indian wars. The home of Joseph Williams, built by him about 
1680, formerly stood on Elmwood Avenue, on land within the present 
park limits. The house was demolished in 1886. 

Roger Williams speaks of Joseph in a letter written to Winthrop 
in 1660: "My youngest son, Joseph, was troubled with a spice of 
epilepsy: We used some remedies, but it hath pleased God, by his 
taking tobacco, perfectly, as we hope to cure him." The "cure" 



W Old Providence 



**if ^e 



was evidently effective, for Joseph lived to a hale old age. He was a 
man prominent in public affairs, and held many offices of importance, 
among them that of deputy in the Colonial Assembly. He was also 
a member of the Town Council. His death occurred in 1724; and 
his estate consisted of some 730 acres, which with his dwelling-place 
and orchard he left to his son James, who was charged by his father 
"to provide for his Mother my said loveing Wife Lidia Williams all 
things that shee shall have neede of and that are necessary for an 
antiant woman during the full term of her naturall Life." The 
"W T ife Lidia" survived her husband but three weeks. She was 
buried by his side on the farm at Mashapaug, — which to-day is in- 
cluded among the acres of Roger Williams Park, — bequeathed to 
the city of Providence by Betsey Williams. 

THE OLD TOWN HOUSE 
In which Interesting Local History was made 

When College Street was Rosemary Lane (which it was when it 
first came into existence in 1720) and when Benefit Street was little 
more than the proverbial calf-path, the Old Town House stood where 
the two streets intersect on a part of the land now occupied by the 
Providence County Court House. This historic edifice was built 
by the First Congregational Church of Providence in 1723, and was 
used for a meeting-house until 1795, when it was given the name by 
which it has ever since been known. The history of this part of 
Providence is made more interesting by the fact that the lot on which 
once stood the Old Town House has been occupied successively by 
a meeting-house, a town-house, and a court-house. 

A movement for the formation of a Congregational society in 
Providence was started, according to some authorities, as early as 
1718, when, to quote from the records of the First Congregational 
Church at Marblehead, the following event occurred: "Collections 
for Pious and Charitable uses by this Church 1718. Dec. 11. Public 
Thanksgiving, a Collection for the Building of a Meeting House in 
the Town of Providence in Rhode Island Government that the Gospel 
might be settled among them. Gathered i6£.i8j., and this Money 
is turned into the hands of Edward Bromfield, Esq., Treasurer." 
Whether this money was put to immediate use is not recorded, though 
it is true that a partially erected meeting-house was abandoned be- 
cause of general dissatisfaction. In 1723 Daniel Abbott and Mary, 
his wife, deeded to "the Congregational ministers of Medfield, Bristol, 
and Rchoboth, and to the eldest deacon in each of those churches, 
as trustees, a portion of the Chad Brown home lot on the Towne 
Street, beginning 'twelve poles eastward from the said Street . . . for 
the erecting and building a meeting house.' " 

6 




Coll. of R. I. Hist. Soc. 
THE OLD TOWN HOUSE 1723-1860 
Oil painting by Geo. W . Harris, done just before it was torn down in i860 

The first pastor of this small congregation was Josiah Cotton, 
who had been graduated in the class of 1722 of Harvard College. 
This was his first parish, and he was installed, with much ceremony, 
October 23, 1728. After the services a dinner was served at the 
home of Captain Daniel Abbott. The church-roll at this time showed 
nine men and the young minister. The church as an organization 
passed through various vicissitudes. Just prior to the Revolutionary 
War the old steeple on the Benefit Street end of the church building 
was in a dilapidated condition, and at the May session of the General 
Assembly there was passed a resolution that gave the church-members 
the right to raise £700 by lottery, the object of which was to procure 
funds to repair the steeple and also the church itself. A town clock was 
mentioned as a desirable thing for the west end of the building. The 
steeple, however, apparently was allowed to tumble down; and the 
clock was probably never placed in the position designated for it. 

It is fortunate for those interested in this landmark that there is 
in existence an excellent picture of it, painted by George W. Harris 
for Henry C. Whitaker in i860, shortly before the old building was 
torn down, the point of view being the northeast corner of Benefit 
and College Streets. In 1890 the painting was presented to the 
Rhode Island Historical Society by Mrs. Harriet M. Whitaker. 




From a photograph by John R. Hess 

THE OLD TURK'S HEAD BUILDING 

Where onee stood J a fob Whitman's house surmounted bv the Turk's head 



TURK'S HEAD 

On this Corner the Head of the Sudan was long a Landmark 

The story goes that Captain Samuel Currie and Jacob Whitman 
met one day in the decade between 1746 and 1756 on the balcony in 
front of the old Manufacturers' Hotel — then a well-known tavern — 
on the site of the present Providence-Washington Building. Several 
men were on the balcony when Captain Currie and Mr. Whitman 
appeared. 

"I want to purchase some land," remarked Mr. Whitman. 

"Buy that swamp," suggested one of the group assembled, indicat- 
ing a salt marsh across the river, a part of which now is the junction 
of Westminster and Weybosset Streets, where stands the present 
Turk's Head Building, said to be the tallest structure in the State. 
'"After you are through with your day's work, on moonlight nights 
you might fill in the lot from yonder sand hill." 

"I'm thinking of buying land also," Captain Currie may have 
suggested. 

"Steer clear of that swamp," somebody warned. "Buy land on 
the hill [now Constitution Hill]. It's central and will increase in 
value, and is by far the better investment." 

Both men, to continue the story as it has been handed down, did 
as they were told. Mr. Whitman filled in his salt marsh by moon- 



Old Providence 



light. Captain Currie bought his land, and waited for it to increase 
in value. Years later he sold it for barely the original cost. The 
Whitman land is to-day one of the most valuable sites in Providence. 
Mr. Whitman built a house on the site of the present Turk's Head 
Building, and here he lived until his death in 1802. The house, 
erected about 1750, has been described as a large, gambrel-roofed 
structure; and "his garden, which was extensive, was stocked with 
choice ornamental shade and fruit trees, shrubs and flowers, and was 
an attractive place of resort for the children of the neighborhood. 
In his garden stood a famous white mulberry-tree, said to have been 
the largest of its kind in the State, and so large that six children with 
clasped hands could barely inclose its circumference. On the front 
and north side of Mr. Whitman's house was a piazza; on the roof 
of the piazza was a balustrade, and at the corner towards the bridge, 
probably upon a post, the renowned Turk's Head." 

Whitman's Corner became one of the famous places in Providence; 
and the Turk's Head, which surmounted a corner of his house, won 
fame also. There has been much conjecture as to where this head 
came from, and also where it went. It was enormous in size and 
frightful in appearance. All children were afraid of it; some women 
were; and no doubt it had secret terrors for the late night prowler. 
Its eyes were large, also its nose and tongue. It has been described 
as having a beard of considerable size. Over this terrifying visage 
towered a great turban. Undoubtedly the Turk's Head was origi- 
nally the figure-head of an East Indiaman. According to all reports 
the figure-head had thrilling adventures long after its voyages 
between this port and the Far East were over. It was washed 
away in the great gale of 181 5, during which the square where stood 
the Whitman house was visited by a six-foot tide. The figure-head 
was probably recovered by a member of the Whitman family, as it 
remained for several years under the cellar stairs of Mr. Jacob Whit- 
man, 2d, who lived in the farm-house at the corner of High Street 
and "Love Lane" (now Knight Street). About 1S24 Mr. Whitman 
shipped the head to his son George in Montgomery, Alabama, where 
it was set up over his place of business. A party of young men one 
night, having drunk a good deal, stole the Turk's Head, packed it in 
a wooden box, and shipped it to the Governor of Alabama, specifying 
that it was the head of the Indian chief for whom he had offered a 
reward. Eventually the head again came into the possession of 
George Whitman, and once more it was placed over his shop. When 
he closed his business, the great head was placed in a warehouse with 
other goods. The warehouse is said to have burned, and with it the 
Turk's Head. There is a tradition that it was never burned at all, 
but that Cherokee Indians obtained possession of it and set it up for 
worship. 




From a photograph 

JOHN CARTER'S HOUSE at the left, and JOHN UPDIKE'S HOUSE at the right 



THE SIGN OF "SHAKESPEAR'S HEAD" IN GAOL LANE 

Where once was published the "Providence Gazette" 

"Shakespear's Head" still stands at 21 Meeting Street. Here 
lived John Carter, who for a time printed the Providence Gazette, 
founded by William Goddard, its publisher and editor. The first 
issue of the paper appeared October 20, 1762. Mr. Goddard printed 
not only the first newspaper, but also the first handbill in Providence. 
"Morro Castle taken by Storm" was the heading of the latter. The 
office of the paper was several times changed, and finally the publica- 
tion suspended on account of the Stamp Act. Prior to its suspen- 
sion it had attained much influence, among the contributors being 
Stephen Hopkins, a signer of the Declaration of Independence. Mr. 
Goddard printed several pamphlets, among them "A Discourse ad- 
dressed to the Sons of Liberty. At a solemn Assembly, near Liberty 
Tree in Providence February 14, 1766." Later the publisher left 
Providence, and entered the editorial field in New York, Philadel- 
phia, and Baltimore. 

The publication of the Gazette was resumed in 1766 by "Sarah 

10 



Old Providence 



Goddard & Company"; and in September of the following year her 
son William, who became a well-known writer, and John Carter, of 
Philadelphia, were the publishers. Eventually John Carter became 
sole publisher, and established himself at "Shakespear's Head." 
Carter had been taught printing by Benjamin Franklin, and as a 
publisher in Providence he was most successful. He continued the 
publication of the Gazette until February, 1 8 14, when he sold the 
business to Hugh H. Brown and William H. Wilson. 

From all accounts, spice was added to the routine of Carter's days 
by the fact that John Updike, his brother-in-law, rented his house 
next door to "Shakespear's Head" to a rival printer, whom Carter 
strenuously tried to outdo; and the quarrels that ensued between 
Captain Updike and his tenant gave much amusement to the neigh- 
bors. The Updike house is still standing. Carter is said to have been 
singularly shrewd at repartee. The interesting printer's shop, which 
was described in October, 1771, as "the new building on Main street, 
opposite the Friends' meeting house," has been thus spoken of: — 

"John Carter's 'Sign of Shakespear's Head' topped a post some 
six or eight feet in height which stood before the house, and symbol- 
ized the treasures of literature to be found within." 

THE SABIN TAVERN 

The First Blow of the Colonists for Independence was struck here 

"Now for to find these people out 
King George has offered every stout, 
One thousand pounds to find out one 
That wounded William Duddingston. 
One thousand more he says he'll spare, 
For one who say they sheriffs were; 
One thousand more there doth remain 
For to find out the leader's name, 
Likewise five hundred pounds per man 
For any one of all the clan." 

A man beating a drum marched through the Main Street of Provi- 
dence on the night of June 9, 1772, calling out to the inhabitants that 
the English schooner Gaspee was aground on Namquit Point, and 
any of those disposed to destroy her might assemble that night at 
the house of James Sabin. It was a resolute body of men who gath- 
ered in the southeast room of Sabin Tavern. They were the leading 
citizens of the town, with whom were mingled many youths who 
spent the evening in making bullets in the kitchen. On the street 
a subdued excitement was apparent, and restless footsteps passed 
and repassed the tavern. In the southeast room, a crude map spread 
on the table before them, the men gathered, and heard the tale of 

11 



Old Providence 



how six or seven miles below the town the schooner Gaspee was aground. 
The Gaspee had been stationed by the British Government at Narra- 
gansett Bay to enforce the revenue laws. The packet Hannah, 
under Captain Benjamin Lindsey, on her way from Newport to 
Providence, that day had passed the Gaspee, and had neither struck 
her flag nor "come to" when the Gaspee fired on her. The revenue 
schooner immediately got under sail, and pursued the Hannah, which 
continued on her way to Providence. Captain Lindsey, perfectly 
familiar with the waters, ran ashore. The Gaspee, commanded by 
Duddingston, followed, intending to shut her rival off close to the 
shore. The Gaspee went aground off Xamquit Point; and, as the 
tide was ebbing, Captain Lindsey knew that she could not get under 
way again until early the following morning. Lindsey hastened to 
Providence, and there told the story, which brought about the meet- 
ing in Sabin Tavern. Welcome Arnold and John Brown were among 
the leading men of the gathering. 

Orders were issued, and at ten o'clock John Brown directed one of 
his ablest shipmasters to collect eight of the largest long-boats in 
the harbor, with five oars each. He ordered the rowlocks to be 
muffled, and told one of his men to bring the boats to Fenner's Wharf, 
just below Sabin Tavern. Orders were given to embark. Captains 
were placed as steersmen over each boat, and among them were 
Captain Abraham Whipple (who was placed in command of the 
party), John B. Hopkins, and Benjamin Dunn. The men plied their 
muffled oars until within about sixty yards of the Gaspee. 

"Who comes there?" called a sentinel. 

No answer. 

"Who comes there?" 

No answer. 

Captain Duddingston next hailed. 

"Eph," said Joseph Bucklin to his companion in one of the boats, 
"reach me my gun. I can kill that fellow !" 

And Joseph Bucklin, in the Revolutionary War, fired the first shot 
at a vessel of the British Navy. Duddingston fell. 

"I have killed that rascal!" exclaimed Bucklin. 

It was but a moment before the boats were alongside the Gaspee. 
Duddingston called for dressings for his wound; and, without re- 
sistance, crew and commander left the schooner, which was burned 
by the party from Sabin Tavern. 

The boats returned to Providence early in the morning; and, 
though approximately a hundred men out of a population of more 
than a thousand were active participants, not a person would admit 
that he knew who burned the Gaspee. It has even been said that 
the deputy governor, Darius Sessions, "had only heard a drum beat- 
ing about the streets, but just then important business had called 



Old Providence 



him out of town and he knew nothing of what had happened further." 
The British Government made a vigorous search for members of the 
party, and offered considerable sums in reward for the apprehension 
of the same; but nothing came of it. 

Old Sabin Tavern, where was planned this first armed resistance 
on the part of the colonists, was at the corner of South Main and 
Planet Streets. It was built about 1763. The house was unfinished 
at the time the plot was formed. The lot on which it stood was 
owned, according to the grant of 1640, by William Burrows; and in 
the year 1757 it was purchased by Woodbury Morris from Joseph 
Whipple for £1200. Woodbury Morris may have built the house 
and leased it to James Sabin. Of Sabin's actual ownership there is 
no record, though it is known that under his management it was 
conducted as a "house of boarding and entertainment for gentlemen." 
In 1785 Welcome Arnold bought the estate, which was in what was 
then an excellent residential section of Providence. 

Welcome Arnold lived in the house until his death in 1798, after 
which it became the home of his eldest son, Samuel G. Arnold, and 
subsequently the home of Colonel Richard J. Arnold. During this 
time the house was enlarged and improved. In 1891, when it was 
proposed to tear down the stately edifice, Mrs. William Richmond 
Talbot, a grand-daughter of Welcome Arnold, had the room in which 
was formed the Gaspee plot removed to her home on the southwest 
corner of Williams and East Streets. "In this room," says an in- 
scription above the old fireplace, "June 9, 1772, was formed the plan 
for the destruction of the British Naval Schooner, 'Gaspee.' ' This 
is one of the most interesting historic spots in Providence. 

THE SABIN TAVERN AS IT APPEARED BEFORE ITS DEMOLITION 

Coll. of Cornelia Arnold, wife of William Richmond Talbot 




Old Providence 



THE MARKET HOUSE 

The Scene of Early Revolutionary Events 

The Old Market House stands to-day on the east side of Market 
Square in the heart of the city, — a reminder of tea-parties and the 
days of George III. Its corner-stone was laid on Tuesday, June 8, 
: 773> by Nicholas Brown, whose brother Joseph had worked on the 
designs of the building. The market-place had been in existence, for 
some time before this event, being an open space on the west side of 
the river. Dr. Bowen, Arthur Fenner, and Governor Jenckes lived 
on the east side of the square in substantial houses, while the north 
and south sides of the market-place were occupied by houses probably 
of the Roger Mowry type. Enterprising citizens several times sug- 
gested that a market-house be built, and started movements to pro- 
cure one; but the financial part of the movement was not so easily 
managed. Finally several of the prominent business men sent a 
petition in 1 771 to the General Assembly, requesting permission to 
hold a lottery, then a popular means of raising public funds. The 
petition was granted, but nearly two years went by before the corner- 
stone was laid on the eventful June 8, already mentioned. The 
cellar was dug by the autumn of 1773. Work was suspended during 
the winter of that year, but by the following July the men of Provi- 
dence were invited to a "raising" of the first story and were liberally 
treated to rum. Silas Downer, who a short time before the building 
of the market-house had delivered a stirring "Liberty Tree" address, 
and who was a young lawyer of some distinction, was appointed clerk 
of the market. The lower story of the building was used as a market, 
and the second story occupied by the town officers and tenants. 

The Market House came into existence when rebellion against 
British taxation was flaming in the hearts of the colonists. Provi- 
dence felt no less keenly concerning injustice done than did some 
of the other cities where fires in the name of liberty had already been 
kindled. When the Continental Congress recommended that a com- 
mittee of inspection be appointed by Providence, such a committee 
was chosen; and among its eighteen members were John Brown, 
Joseph Brown, Jabez Bowen, John Jenckes, Joseph Russell, and 
Nicholas Cooke. In the chamber appointed for its use in the Market 
House this committee met, and at its first meeting an article was 
read which referred to the use of tea after March 1, 1775. 

The town crier on the 2d of March gave notice: "At five of the 
clock this afternoon, a quantity of India tea will be burnt in the 
Market Place. All true friends of their country, lovers of freedom, 
and haters of shackles and hand cuffs, are hereby invited to testify 
their good disposition, by bringing in and casting into the fire, a 

15 



Old Providence 



needless herb, which for a long time, hath been highly detrimental 
to our liberty, interest, and health!" 

The people assembled in Market Square at five o'clock, where they 
burned three hundred pounds of tea, a tar-barrel, Lord North's 
speech, and various newspapers. The demonstration was accom- 
panied by tolling bells and a cheerfulness that was remarkable. The 
Gazette adds that, "whilst the Tea was burning, a spirited Son of 
Liberty went along the streets with his brush and lampblack, and 
obliterated or unpainted the word tea on the shop signs." In com- 
memoration of this event the Daughters of the American Revolution 
in 1894 placed a bronze tablet on the Market House. Another tablet 
records the fact that the building of the third story by St. John's 
Masonic Lodge was completed in the year 1797, and that the new 
quarters were dedicated on December 27 of that year. To Masons 
throughout the United States this old Market House in Providence 
is noteworthy from the fact that in it, on August 23, 1802, Thomas 
Smith W ebb, the moving spirit in masonry at the close of the eigh- 
teenth century and the beginning of the nineteenth, organized Saint 
John's Encampment (now Commandery) Number One, Knights 
Templars, the oldest Templar organization in America. Templar 
ritual stands to-day substantially as Webb prepared it for this first 
Commandery, whose records have been preserved intact for one 
hundred and sixteen years. Here too was organized in 1805 the 
Grand Encampment (now Commandery) of Massachusetts and 
Rhode Island by Saint John's Number One, Boston Number Two, 
and Newburyport Commandery Number Three. The Market 
House was also the scene of numerous Masonic conventions which 
resulted in 1816 in the organization of the Grand Encampment of 
the United States. 

When, during the Revolution, the French troops were encamped 
in Providence, the Market House was used as a barracks. It wit- 
nessed the developments of the Revolution, and was a participant 
in many of the stirring scenes which attended it. 

The king's proclamation was posted on the hay-scales, on its 
eastern end, offering a munificent reward for information concerning 
those who participated in the Gaspee plot. There is a tradition that 
a well-known lawyer of the day, John Aplin, tore down the broad- 
side, "removing the source of temptation, and possibly saving some 
of his townsmen from a hangman's rope." 

The Providence Chamber of Commerce now occupies the old Mar- 
ket House, which is the oldest municipal building in the city; and, 
with the exception of the Old State House on North Main Street, 
it is the oldest public building. 



16 




From a photograph by John R. //<■« 

Directly above the boy's head is seen the tablet placed by the R. I. Hist. Soc. 

THE STEPHEN HOPKINS HOUSE 

Where lived Stephen Hopkins, a Signer of the Declaration of Indepen- 
dence, and where Washington was a Guest 

"My hand trembles, but my heart does not," said Stephen Hopkins, 
as with palsied fingers he inscribed his name to the Declaration of 
Independence. 

It is unfortunately true — and this fact has been pointed out by one 
who has given close study to the life of this noted man — that no 
portrait remains of Stephen Hopkins, that even his likeness in the 
famous Trumbull group of the signers was sketched from the face 
of Stephen Hopkins's son. Thus a picture of him can only be formed 
by the events with which he was intimately associated. 

He was born in 1707 within the limits of the present city of Provi- 
dence. He became a member of the legislature, a governor of Rhode 
Island, a chief justice of the Supreme Court, and a member of the 
Continental Congress of 1774, which a year later adopted the Declara- 
tion of Independence. Esek Hopkins, the first commander-in-chief 
|of the American Navy, was his brother. 

17 



Old Providence 



*sap Viif 



Stephen Hopkins built his house on a thoroughfare which since 
1805 has been Hopkins Street. In 1742, when the house was built, 
it was situated on Town Street, near the water and the lumber yards, 
— a district very sparsely settled at the time. From its early loca- 
tion the house was moved to its present one in 1804. 

About Hopkins's old house linger many memories. In 1776 Wash- 
ington reached Providence. This visit followed closely the evacua- 
tion of Boston. The general and his staff, and General Gates, "were 
invited to an elegant entertainment at Hacker's Hall, provided by 
the gentlemen of the town, where, after dinner, a number of patriotic 
toasts were drunk." The town authorities considered, and decided 
that no place of entertainment was so appropriate as Governor Hop- 
kins's house. The master of the house was in Philadelphia, but his 
daughter Ruth was at home; and, when the town representatives 
brought General Washington, Ruth calmly set herself about making 
her guest comfortable. Many were the suggestions, if tradition may 
be relied on, that were offered to Ruth Hopkins by her anxious neigh- 
bors. Silver was tendered, and linen, food, and china. But to all 
these overtures Ruth turned a deaf ear, asserting, with all respect to 
her distinguished guest, that what was good enough for her father 
was good enough for General Washington. ("She adored her father," 
a dear old soul added.) The room where Washington slept became 
from that day an historic place, and it was counted a great privilege 
to sleep in it. 

The French troops in 1 78 1 encamped in Newport, and Washington 
again visited Rhode Island. After a conference with General Rocham- 
beau, he left Newport, and on the 13th of March arrived in Provi- 
dence. It was during his stay that Washington visited again the 
home of Stephen Hopkins. Moses Brown tells of his visit: "I was 
with him, sitting, when General Washington by himself alone called 
to see him. I sat some time, viewing the simple, friendly and pleasant 
manner" in which " these two great men met and conversed with each 
other on various subjects." Some time afterward Mr. Brown spoke of 
again seeing Washington and of being impressed with his easy, simple 
manner, — "very like that of Stephen Hopkins." 

THE ESEK HOPKINS HOUSE 

II here ived Esek Hopkins, the First Commander-in-chief of the American 

Navy 

The homestead of Esek Hopkins on the east side of Admiral Street 
was in 1907 given to the city of Providence by Elizabeth Angell 
Gould. The State of Rhode Island has placed on it a tablet whereon 
is the following inscription: — 

Esek Hopkins, 1718-1802, First Commander-in-chief of the 
American Navy, lived in this House 




From (7 (tliiylo^rap 



THE ESEK HOPKINS HOUSE 



Call, of R. I. Hisl. Soc. 



The first commander-in-chief of the American Navy, the foundation 
of which was laid in Rhode Island waters, was Esek Hopkins, whose 
term of military service covered only two months and eighteen days. 
He was appointed commander-in-chief of the American Navy on De- 
cember 21, 1775. It has been said that his title was intended to cor- 
respond to Washington's rank in the army. There seems to be some 
confusion as to the title; for he was sometimes addressed as commo- 
dore and at other times as admiral, both official designations being 
used by Congress and the Committee of Naval Affairs. 

Rhode Island as early as June, 1775, had demonstrated her readi- 
ness for naval action, when the General Assembly directed that two 
vessels be chartered (one of ten guns and eighty men, and the other 
somewhat smaller), in order that the trade of the colony might be 
protected. Abraham Whipple was put in command of this force, 
and on the day of his appointment fired the first cannon in naval 
action and captured the first prize taken in the American Revolution. 
On the organization of the Continental fleet, Whipple was transferred 
from the State to the Continental service, and was placed in com- 
mand of the ship Columbus under Commodore Hopkins. 

Hopkins sailed for Philadelphia in the early part of January, 1776, 

19 



Old Providence 



in the Katy, afterward named the Providence. He captured a small 
craft and a few prisoners, and arrived in Philadelphia on January 14. 
"Our seamen arrived here," it was reported, "day before yesterday. 
Those concerned in the naval department are highly pleased with 
them. Their arrival gives fresh spirit to the whole fleet." A number 
of ships were rapidly equipped. In speaking of the name of the 
Katy being changed, John Adams says, "She was named for the town 
where she was purchased, the residence of Governor Hopkins and his 
brother Esek, whom we appointed the first captain." 

Orders were given Commodore Hopkins by the Marine Committee 
to locate and attack the enemy's ships in Chesapeake Bay. From 
there he was to proceed to Rhode Island to destroy the British fleet, 
and afterward he was to sail to the island of New Providence to secure 
powder, of which the colonists were in much need. Disaster attended 
the expedition from first to last. Sickness spread among the crew, 
and there were many cases of small-pox. Heavy gales from the 
northeast began to blow. The harbors were occupied by the enemy. 
Commodore Hopkins used the discretion which his orders left to 
him, and sailed for New Providence in the Bahamas, where he seized 
cannon and some small stores of ammunition, loaded his ships, and 
started north again, capturing on the way two small vessels loaded 
with arms and stores. The next morning he encountered the British 
frigate Glasgow. After a desperate encounter in which the American 
ships were partially disabled, the Glasgow escaped. No blame was 
attached to Commodore Hopkins for this episode. Indeed, John 
Paul Jones has only the highest praise for his commander, and John 
Hancock on behalf of Congress sincerely congratulated Hopkins 
for his deportment in the encounter, adding that "it is to be regretted 
that the Glasgow made her escape, yet as it was not due to any mis- 
conduct, the praise due you and the other officers is undoubtedly 
the same." In spite of all these things the Glasgow episode became 
the peg on which multitudes of dissensions were hung, and it was 
really the beginning of troubles innumerable for the worthy com- 
mander. Among the recruits drawn for later voyages, sickness pre- 
vailed, the sailors were dissatisfied, and Commodore Hopkins found 
difficulty in obtaining their wages. Matters went from bad to worse. 
Correspondence to some extent was carried on between Hopkins and 
the Marine Committee. Enemies of Commodore Hopkins became 
active; and on January 2, 1778, he was dismissed from the naval ser- 
vice of his country. Still, he adds, "I am determined to continue a 
friend of my country, neither do I intend to remain inactive." And 
this activity characterized his life until the end. He served Rhode 
Island at home, took his seat in the legislature, and was appointed a 
member of the Council of War. For more than thirty years he so 
served his country. Throughout these years he had watched the ad- 



Old Providence 



vancement of John Adams whom he greatly admired; and in 1797, 
when this distinguished President visited Providence, he was told by 
a messenger at the Golden Ball Tavern (the present Mansion House), 
where he and his family were guests, that a gentleman was waiting below 
and wished to see him. It was Esek Hopkins, who hobbled toward Mr. 
Adams as he came into the great hall of the inn, and, with tears stream- 
ing from his eyes, clasped the President's hand and thanked him again 
and again for defending him at the time of his dismissal from his 
country's service. Adams in his diary gives a detailed account of this 
pathetic occurrence, and adds that Esek Hopkins said "he knew not for 
what end he was continued in life, unless it were to punish his friends 
or teach his children and grandchildren to respect me." 

The Providence Gazette of March 6, 1802, announces his death: 
"On Friday the 26th ult. at his residence in North Providence, Esek 
Hopkins, Esq.; in the 84th year of his age." So passed the "in- 
flexible patriot." 




From the Early History of Broun University, by Dr. Reuben A. Guild 
Courtesy of the Gnihi family 



UNIVERSITY HALL AND FIRST PRESIDENT'S HOUSE 

In University Hall, Troops were quartered during the Revolution 

The Philadelphia Association, the oldest Baptist association in 
America, was founded in 1707. To it Brown University owes its 
origin. Under its auspices was founded in 1756 in the State of New 
Jersey an academy where young men were educated for the ministry. 
Out of the success of this academy was born a desire to establish a 
Baptist college, proposed at a memorable meeting of the Association 
in Philadelphia on the 12th of October, 1762. "The first mover for 
it in 1762," said the Rev. Morgan Edwards, "was laughed at as the 



Old Providence 



projector of a thing impracticable. Nay, many of the Baptists them- 
selves discouraged the design, prophesying evil to the churches in case 
it would take place, from an unhappy prejudice against learning." 

The first meeting of the "Corporation for founding and endowing 
a College or University within the Colony of Rhode Island and Provi- 
dence Plantations in New England in America" was held in September, 
1764, in Newport. Twenty-four men, among whom were Stephen 
Hopkins, Nicholas Brown, and Daniel Jenckes, attended the meeting. 
At the second meeting, in the following September, James Manning 
was chosen president of the college. The first commencement was 
held in 1769 in Warren, when a class of seven was graduated, — 
a considerable growth during the four years that had passed. Presi- 
dent Manning began with a single pupil. Up to the first commence- 
ment, Edwards says, "the Seminary was for the most part friendless 
and moneyless, and therefore forlorn, insomuch that a college edifice 
was hardly thought of." Moses Brown, founder of the Friends' 
School, suggested that the college be moved to Providence. Where- 
upon the towns of Warren, East Greenwich, and Newport asked that 
the college be given to them. At the meeting held in Newport on 
November 14, 1769, these claims were heard. It was voted that the 
college edifice be at Providence. 

The corner-stone of University Hall, one of the oldest and, his- 
torically, perhaps the most interesting in the State of Rhode Island, 
was laid by John Brown, May 14, 1770. Four thousand dollars had 
been raised by the people of Providence, and the lot on which Uni- 
versity Hall was built was a part of the farm of Chad Brown. The 
money raised being insufficient to complete the structure, but two 
stories were built. 

The house of James Manning, the first president of Brown University, 
was built in 1771, and was situated between the present refectory and 
Manning Hall. Here lived James Manning during the larger part of' his 
life, and here also lived Maxcy, Messer, and Wayland, his successors. 
When a new president's house was built in 1840, the old house of 
Manning was moved down the hill, where, after a second removal, it still 
stands, one of a number of old buildings similar to it in architecture. 

University Hall is said to have been on the same plan as Nassau Hall 
at Princeton University, "built of brick, four stories high and 150 feet 
long." The bricks of which it was built are said to have been brought 
from Rehoboth. Extensive pasture-lands surrounded the hall, and it 
has been recalled that President Manning's cows grazed on the campus. 
His well at the southeast corner of the hall was used for many years. 

Twenty-five students were enrolled under Mr. Manning, and they 
were served "three good meals per day" for the sum of a dollar a 
week. In 1776, when Sir Peter Parker, the British commander, 
with eleven men-of-war and seventy transports landed in Newport, 



Old Providence 



Providence was in a state of great excitement. Martial law was 
proclaimed. President Manning dismissed his students. He says: 
"The Country flew to Arms & marched for Providence, there, un- 
provided with Barracks they marched into the College & dispossesed 
the Students, about 40 in Number." "The town," says another 
writer, "exhibited the appearance of a camp. The college building 
was first used as quarters for the artillery and the grounds around it 
for parade, and afterwards for a hospital for sick soldiers." In the 
claim for damages presented by the college corporation to the United 
States Government after the war, it is stated that University Hall 
was used by the American Army as a barracks and hospital from 
December 10, 1776, to April 20, 1780, and then, following its evacua- 
tion by Washington's men, it was turned over to the French troops 
which had come to aid us, and was used by them as a hospital from 
June 26, 1780, to May 27, 1782. When the building was finally re- 
occupied by the college it was in a pretty bad condition, much damage 
having been done by the martial uses to which it had for so long been 
put, and in 1782 and 1792 the college corporation presented to the 
federal government bills amounting to a total of about $7,660, for 
use of and damage to the hall. Not until 1800 was any compensation 
received, and then it amounted to only $2,779.13. A thousand 
dollars was paid out by the corporation for repairs, and the third 
story was complete in 1785. In 1798 the fourth story was added. An 
act was passed by Congress on April 16, 1800, to reimburse the college 
for the use of the building; and the sum paid overwas $2,000. A quarter 
of a century later the building was named University Hall. There have 
been various changes made in the interior from time to time. The 
final restoration of the exterior was paid for by Marsden J. Perry. 

George Washington visited the college in 1790. "The president," 
reports the Gazette, "and many others took a walk on the college 
green to view the illumination of the building by the students, which 
made a most splendid appearance." 

At the commencement of 1790 twenty-two men took their degrees, 
and among the number were Moses Brown, the youngest son of Nicho- 
las Brown, and Asa Messer, who became the third president of the 
university. When the exercises were concluded, the degree of Doctor 
of Laws was conferred on George Washington, first President of the 
United States. 

In 1804, in consideration of the many benefactions received from 
Nicholas Brown, the name of the corporation was changed from the 
Rhode Island College to Brown University. Mr. Brown eighteen 
years later built the second college building, which at his suggestion 
was named Hope College for his sister, Hope Ives. He gave in 1835 
a third building, which he named Manning Hall in honor of James 
Manning, first president of the university. 

23 



Old Providence 



*SSf VSMf 



THE BAPTIST CHURCH 

The Oldest Baptist Church in America and the Second Oldest in the World 

Not far from the Baptist church, Roger Williams and his five 
companions were greeted by friendly Indians; but a short distance 
away was the home of Roger Williams, and his spring; near by his 
covenants were made with the redmen; in this vicinity a civil state 
was founded and Roger Williams baptized; and within a peaceful 
orchard close by was he buried. "The first Baptist Church," says 
a tablet on the side next to North Main Street, "founded by Roger 
Williams, a.d. 1638. The oldest Baptist Church in America. The 
oldest church in the State. This Meeting House erected a.d. 1775." 
The tablet was the gift of George M. Snow in memory of his wife. 

The Providence Journal gives an interesting account of this church. 
"Of all denominations," it says, "Providence owes most to the Bap- 
tists. They founded the city; they built the first church of the faith 
upon this continent; they worked on for their little settlement through 
stern hardship; very largely through the influence of the Baptists 
Rhode Island College — now Brown University — was located here. . . . 
The Mother Church of America is here. . . . Roger Williams, who 
founded the city, originated the church, and was its first pastor. For 
the first sixty years of the Colony's existence there was no meeting- 
house for the church, and for over a century no salary was paid its 
ministers. Each pastor earned his own living in secular pursuits. When 
Brown University came to Providence the church had 118 members and 
there were 400 inhabitants in the town. The location of the college in 
the community meant a great deal to the church and led to the building 
in May, 1775, of the handsome meeting-house on North Main street 
that still impresses all who look upon it with its great dignity and stern 
beauty. The cost was $25,000, and the 'dedication came midway be- 
tween the battles of Lexington and Bunker Hill.' " 

Often has the church been called the Baptist cathedral of America. 
Its plan was drawn by James Gibbs after plans which were executed 
for the Church of St. Martin's-in-the-Fields, London. Joseph Brown 
and James Sumner, architects, adapted the plans and put them into 
execution. The building is considered an excellent specimen of 
colonial architecture. 

Here were held the funeral solemnities which were observed when 
news reached Providence of the death of President Washington. 
Manifestations of grief were everywhere. Amid muffled drums, 
pealing cannon, and tolling bells the procession marched from Broad 
Street to the house of Colonel Jeremiah Olney, where the bier lay; 
and from there, with its symbolic burden, the procession marched 
to the Baptist meeting-house, where, from a pulpit draped in black, 
Colonel George R. Burrill delivered the funeral oration. Beneath 

^4 




Frnm a photograph 



THE FIRST BAPTIST CHURCH IN AMERICA 



him lay the bier, partially concealed by a mourning-piece represent- 
ing a pedestal on which was a representation of the urn containing the 
sacred ashes of Washington, guarded by three angels. The motto 
was, "Sacred to the memory of the illustrious Washington.'" 

The entire ceremony was carried out with the preciseness of a 
military funeral. Half-hour guns pealed at sunset, and the bells 
tolled their solemn notes until curfew time. 




From a photograph 



■ "AN OLD NEW ENGLAND MEETING HOUSE" 
First Congregational Church of Provide net-. Built 1816 

On an elevation which commands a view of the west side of the 
city of Providence the First Congregational Church faces Benefit 
Street in stately dignity. For more than a hundred years has it 
been a sentinel there, and during this time the bell in the tower has 
summoned the people to worship. This bell, the largest and heaviest 
cast by Paul Revere and his son at Canton, Massachusetts, was placed 
in the steeple on August 16, 1816. 

26 



Old Providence 



The church occupies the same site as did the one built in 1795 and 
burned in 1814. The original church-members built in 1723 the 
edifice, which became later the Old Town House, located where the 
Court House now stands. When the present church edifice was 
first occupied, only the minister's room could be heated. From its 
great fireplace, just before service, coals were taken and placed in 
the individual foot-warmers of the pews. Many families brought their 
own embers from home. In those days the church was lighted by 
candles, which at times provokingly dripped from the chandelier, to 
the discomfiture of the pew-holders in that vicinity. 

From the time of its erection until the close of the Civil War the 
spacious lawn around the front of the church was enclosed with a 
fine old fence, which had three gates, ornamented with urns correspond- 
ing to those on the church-spire. 

Dr. Lord recalls a local tradition concerning the organ of the church, 
which asserts (though for this statement he does not vouch) that 
the organ is the first that was used by any Congregational society in 
this country. Most of the pipes were saved from the fire of 1814; 
and some of them, from the original instrument of 1794, are probably 
still in use. 

"John H. Greene," says Dr. Lord, "was the designer and builder 
of many of the fine old houses of Providence, such as the Sullivan 
Dorr house, 109 Benefit Street, the Beckwith house, corner of Benefit 
and College Streets, and the house now owned by Mrs. John Carter 
Brown on Benevolent Street, opposite our Parish House. He also 
designed and built St. John's Church, Dexter Asylum, and the first 
meeting-house of the Universalists. But he regarded this church 
as his masterpiece, and was proud of its every detail, as appears in 
his account of the building preserved in our parish records. 

"The exterior of the church today, now that the original white- 
glass, small-paned windows have been happily restored, is practically 
the same as it was in 1816, with the difference of a few feet in the 
height of the steeple, the top of which was blown off in the great 
gale of 1836. John Greene, although conforming generally to the 
prevalent style of Georgian architecture in his buildings, was something 
of a genius, and here and there added touches of daring, but, in the 
opinion of some of the best judges, successful, originality. This ap- 
pears in the row of large single windows of our church instead of the 
double row of smaller windows which characterizes other New Eng- 
land churches; and the outstanding circles of columns on the spire, 
of which there are only one or two other instances in the country." 

The interior of the church is practically unchanged, its most im- 
pressive feature being the mahogany pulpit. 



27 




From a print 



Coll. of R. I. Hist. St 



THE MANSION HOUSE 

Where Washington, Adams, Lafayette, Monroe, and in More Recent 
Times James Russell Lowell were Guests 

The Mansion House still stands on Benefit Street, in dilapidated 
dignity behind the Old State House. The stranger is told, "There, 
in the second story, at the right of the balcony, is the room Washing- 
ton occupied." Other distinguished guests have stayed there. For 
many years Asa Messer Gammell, class of '41 Brown University, 
occupied the room which was Washington's. More than a century 
ago the old hostelry was one of the finest houses of entertainment in 
Providence. Here many a lady and gentleman of the old school trod 
the measures of the stately minuet when it was in fashion. For 
years famous balls and receptions were held in its big hall. Probably 
the most magnificent were held in 181 3. Benefit Street was then called 
Back Street. 

More than a year after the inauguration of President \\ ashington 
he visited Providence. It was May 29, 1790. A cannon was fired 
when he entered the harbor, and on his landing he was greeted with 
salutes and the ringing of church-bells. A large delegation, composed 
mostly of Brown University students, escorted the distinguished guest 
to the Golden Ball Tavern, by which name the Mansion House was 
then known. The President, according to the report of the Pennsyl- 
vania Packet of August 28, was accompanied by Governor Clinton 
of New York, Mr. Smith of South Carolina, and three gentlemen of 
his family. Colonel Humphreys, Major Jackson, and Mr. Nelson. 

28 



Old Providence 



William Smith, one of the party, kept a diary during the trip, in 
which he says: "We had a tedious passage to Providence, being seven 
hours in performing it. The same salute took place as at Newport, 
but the procession to the tavern was more solemn and conducted with 
a much greater formality, having troops and music. The Governor 
of the State was so zealous in his respects that he jumped aboard the 
packet as soon as she got to the wharf to welcome the President to 
Providence. The President, with the Governor of the State on his 
right hand, and Mr. Foster, a Senator in Congress from R. I. on his 
left, moved in the front ranks; then followed Governor Clinton, Mr. 
Jefferson, Mr. Blair, myself and three gentlemen of the President's 
party, viz. Col. Humphreys, Major Jackson and Mr. Nelson." 

On the following Thursday the President and his party viewed an 
East Indiaman, 990 tons, after which they visited John Innes Clarke, 
John Brown, Governor Fenner, and Governor Bowen. A dinner 
was served that day in the Old State House, where, in response to 
the town's address, President Washington said in part: "As under 
the smiles of Heaven, America is indebted for freedom and inde- 
pendence, rather to the joint exertions of her citizens of the several 
States, in which it may be your boast to have borne no inconsiderable 
share, than to the conduct of her Commander-in-Chief, so she is in- 
debted for their support, rather to the continuation of those exertions, 
than the prudence and ability manifested in the exercise of powers, 
delegated to the President of the United States. ... I thank you, 
gentlemen, for your prayers for my future welfare, and offer you my 
best wishes for your individual and collective happiness." 

President John Adams in the summer of 1797, while on the way to 
his home in Massachusetts, stopped with his family in Providence, 
where they were guests at the Mansion House. The President was 
greeted by the pealing of bells and the roar of cannon, and through 
thronged streets he was escorted by the Providence Light Dragoons 
to the famous hostelry. It was during the evening of his visit, after 
he had viewed the illumination of the college buildings, that Esek 
Hopkins- — worn and old, but in whose heart patriotic fires still burned- 
visited the President. Then occurred the touching scene already 
related in connection with the first Commander-in-chief of the 
American Navy. 

Among other distinguished guests at the Mansion House have been 
President Madison in 181 7, General Lafayette in 1824, and in later 
years James Russell Lowell. All of them occupied Washington's 
room. The name of the Mansion House has been many times 
changed, possibly to keep pace with the years which have drifted by 
it so rapidly, possibly to recall more appropriately "mine host" and 
"ve olden davs." 



29 




From a photograph 

THE OLD STATE HOUSE 

Known as the Independence Hall of Providence 

The Old State House on North Main Street was built in 1761 , was 
first occupied the following year, and was used as a "Court and State 
House by the Colony and State of Rhode Island and Providence 

30 



Old Providence 



Plantations" until 1900. In the historic old building — appropriately 
called the Independence Hall of Providence — an act was passed on 
May 4, 1776, "constituting Rhode Island the first free and inde- 
pendent Republic in America and asserting her absolute indepen- 
dence of England, two months before the Declaration of Independence 
in Philadelphia." 

Memorable events have occurred in this Hall of Independence, 
the history of which is so closely woven with that of this nation. 
Washington probably visited the Old State House on each of his 
trips to Providence. When he came in March, 1781, en route from 
Newport, where he went to consult General Rochambeau on military 
affairs, he was given a dinner at the Old State House, at which thir- 
teen toasts were drunk. It was during this visit that the men, women, 
and children, who thronged the streets, pressed so close to his carriage 
that he was obliged to stop every few minutes. 

Count Dumas, who accompanied General Washington to Providence, 
says in his Memoirs that Washington was very much affected by these 
demonstrations, and that, pressing Count Dumas' hand, he said, "We 
may be beaten by the English: it is the chance of war; but behold an 
army which they can never conquer!" The army referred to was a 
group of children carrying torches, and eagerly calling out to the Father 
of the Country, whose coach they completely surrounded. 

Again, in August, 1790, in the Old State House a dinner was served 
in honor of Washington. There were two hundred plates laid; and, 
as nine years before, thirteen toasts were drunk. "The Congress 
of the United States" was the first; "The President of the United 
States," the second; "The Governor of the State," the third; "The 
King and National Assembly of France," "Lafayette," "The Fair 
Daughters of America," and "The Town of Providence" followed. 
When the town of Providence had been pledged in "good old Provi- 
dence rum," the President and his party left the State House and 
hastened to the New York boat, on which they sailed at four o'clock. 

Lafayette was received at the State House, August 23, 1824. The 
gallant Frenchman was met several miles out of Providence by a 
delegation of citizens, and was at once escorted to the State House, 
where, bowing low to the people who had gathered outside to greet 
him, with tear-dimmed eyes he paused at the door. Just as he was 
about to enter, he saw near him Captain Stephen Olney, who had 
served with him during the Revolution. Lafayette folded the old 
soldier in his arms, and pressed a kiss on either cheek. 

After meeting Governor Fenner and the guests assembled in the 
State House, Lafayette came out of the building, and shook hands 
with hundreds of persons who had waited to meet him, and among 
them were many women and children who had waved handkerchiefs 
and scattered roses when he entered the town. 

3i 




oni a photograph by John R. H?ss 



THE JOHN BROWN HOUSE 

"The most magnificent and elegant private mansion that I have ever seen 
on this continent." — John Quincy Adams 

"The richest merchant in Providence," said the Duke de la Roche- 
foucauld-Liancourt, a French nobleman, who journeyed through the 
greater part of America in 1795-97, "is John Brown, brother to 
Moses, the Quaker. In one part of the town he has accomplished 
things that, even in Europe, would appear considerable. At his own 
expense he had opened a passage through the hill to the river, and has 
there built wharves, houses, an extensive distillery, and even a bridge, 
by which the road from Newport to Providence is shortened at least 
a mile." At the end of this bridge mentioned by the French writer, 
John Brown placed a statue of President \\ ashington, whom he 
greatly admired. 

John Brown in 1786 built on Power Street the splendid mansion 
which to-day bears his name. For many years it was occupied by 
the Gammell family- Marsden J. Perry purchased the house in 1901, 
and in it are housed his great collection of Shaksperiana and a collec- 
tion of Chippendale furniture that is considered the most notable in 
this country. 

John Brown, the third of the "four brothers," was the leader in 
the Gaspee plot; and with his brothers he was active in the interests 

32 



Old Providence 



of Brown University. It was he who sent the General Washington, 
the first ship from the port of Providence, to the East Indies. His 
famous colonial mansion, unchanged, is considered one of the most 
beautiful residences in the country. Gigantic elms surround it. The 
entrance to the grounds through solid mahogany gates is impressive. 
The bricks of which the three-story house is built are said to have been 
brought from England on John Brown's own ships, while the mahogany 
for the interior came from St. Domingo. The house was designed by 
John Brown's brother Joseph, who also was the architect of the Market 
House and helped in designing the plans for the Baptist church. 

For many years John Brown lived on South Main Street, next to 
Nicholas, his eldest brother. The Power Street house on which is 
inscribed, "This house founded by John Brown, Esq., 1786," was not 
formally opened until the first of January, 1788, when the merchant's 
eldest daughter was married. The announcement of the ceremony 
appeared in the Providence Gazette: "On Tuesday evening last was 
married, John Francis, Esq., merchant, to Miss Abby Brown, Daughter 
of John Brown, Esq.: a young Lady whose truly amiable Disposition 
and engaging manners cannot fail to adorn and dignify the con- 
nubial state." 

Hospitality was freely given at the stately mansion, and many 
noted guests have been received there, among them General Wash- 
ington. Commencement dinners were notable affairs, and there is 
a tradition that at a party given for the alumni of Brown University, 
among whom were numerous clergymen, Obadiah Brown, son of 
Joseph, proposed the toast, — 

"Here's to a short respite to the damned in hell!" 

The dead silence which ensued was broken by the host. 

"Truly," said he, "gentlemen, a most admirable sentiment in 
which we can all heartily join!" 

An interesting note is made by Staples in his Annals of the Town 
of Providence to the effect that "John Brown, one of the most worthy 
merchants of Providence, or, in fact, of New England, appeared in 
January, 1789, dressed in cloth made from the fleeces of his own 
flocks." The newspaper from which Staples took his note adds 
that "the yarn was spun by a woman eighty-eight years of age." This 
was done by Mr. Brown to encourage home-manufacture of clothing, 
since duties on imported goods were then high. 

"Mr. Brown," says A. M. Eaton, "strenuously supported the 
union of the States and served two years in Congress. His influence 
was largely instrumental in securing the tardy ratification by this 
State of the Constitution of the United States, his broad mind having 
always foreseen and urged the benefits of closer union when the feeble 
ties of the Confederacy failed. Tradition tells how, upon the day 
when the final vote of the Convention was to be taken, he secured the 

33 



Old Providence 



loss of one vote by the party opposed to the adoption of the Con- 
stitution by kindly lending his horse and chaise to a member from 
the country and elder of a church, in order that he might drive out 
and preach that day." 

As lasting, and impressive too, as are the events of his active life, 
is the memorial in stone on Power Street where the little weather- 
beaten statues still guard the gate-posts. It is an old tradition that, 
when these statues hear the clock strike twelve, they bow to each 
other — and turn to stone again. Many a child has patiently watched, 
during the century past, in front of them as the clock pealed, and 
waited for the event which never happened. 

THE JOSEPH BROWN HOUSE 
Here lived French Officers during the Revolution 

Joseph Brown was the second of the "four brothers." He is best 
remembered as an architect of no little distinction. His house, the 
entrance of which is changed, stands to-day on South Main Street, 
No. 72. It was designed and built by him in 1774, and is now occupied 
by the Providence National Bank. It is an interesting fact that the 
first president of this bank was John Brown, that the presidents who 
succeeded him have been largely drawn from his descendants, and 
that the bank itself occupies the house of John Brown's brother. 

"It is related," says a chronicler, "that at one time, when many 
French officers were quartered in Providence, one of these gallant 
fellows, doubtless after a good dinner and perhaps on a wager, rode 
his spirited charger up the flight of steps shown in the view of the old 
mansion, and into the spacious hall that leads through the house. 
The horse was unwilling to make the descent of the long, steep flight 
of steps, and was therefore taken through the great rear door of the 
hall into the grounds adjoining, where then stood a superb old pear- 
tree, under which General Washington once sat and regaled himself 
with the luscious fruit." 

When the French came to Providence, the "four brothers" — 
Nicholas, Joseph, John, and Moses Brown — lived there. They were 
active in making the troops comfortable, using their influence to 
procure University Hall and many of the private houses. The French 
reached Rhode Island for the third time in 1782. They did not, as 
in 1778, come to fight the British, nor, as in 1780 and 1781, did they 
come as protectors. They came this cold November to encamp until 
preparations could be made for their return to France. Count de 
Rochambeau asked for grounds for his six thousand troops in Provi- 
dence, and this request was granted by the governor, who gave them a 
part of North Providence, — ground now marked by a bronze tablet. 
The troops were in camp less than a month. Many of the officers 

34 



Old Providence 



stayed in town, and were quartered with various families. Many 
did as did Joseph Brown, — gave up their homes to the French guests. 

Count Segur, who was among the officers, in his Memoirs recalls 
the stay in Providence: "Providence must now be a large city, and 
might already, at that time, have been considered a pretty little town. 
It then only contained 3000 inhabitants; but all were in easy circum- 
stances, which they owed to assiduous labor and active industry. 
It is situated in the middle of a valley watered by the water of the 
Narragansett, which is tolerably wide and navigable. 

"Our army was encamped on the road to Boston, three miles from 
Providence. The autumn was like winter, the cold was sharp and 
the snow fell in abundance. As we were not yet certain as to the 
time of our departure, which might still be very much protracted, 
M. de Rochambeau caused barracks to be built for the soldiers, and 
allowed Colonels to lodge in private houses, where everyone eagerly 
offered an asylum. ... M. de Rochambeau gave several balls and 
assemblies at Providence, which were attended by all the neighbor- 
hood within ten leagues of that city. I do not recollect to have seen 
anywhere an assemblage in which a greater degree of mirth prevailed 
without confusion, in which there was a greater number of pretty 
women, and married people living together happily — a greater pro- 
portion of beauty free from coquetry; a more complex mixture of 
persons of all classes, whose conduct and manners presented an equal 
degree of decorum, which obliterated all appearance of unpleasant 
contrast or distinction." 

James Manning, president of Brown University, in a letter to 
Rippon Manning, August 3, 1784, records the appointment of Joseph 
Brown as professor of experimental philosophy in the college. 

THE JOHN CARTER BROWN HOUSE 

Where was a Collection of Americana valued at more than a Million 

Dollars 

John Carter Brown was a member of the firm of Brown .S: Eves. 
From his father, the benefactor of Brown University, he inherited 
large business interests and a fortune. Destiny had made John Carter 
Brown a merchant. Inclination made him a great collector of books. 
Early in life he began to collect rare and curious volumes, and trav- 
elled far to procure them, expending a large fortune. In spite of the 
fact that he had gathered a costly collection of Americana, he was 
always generous in placing it at the disposal of those who wished to 
use it. In some instances he sent volumes across the Atlantic, — 
volumes which, had they been lost, could never have been replaced. 
"In one instance," said Mr. John R. Bartlett, who prepared an early 
catalogue of the collection, "this was done to meet the wishes of 

35 




"W (7 photograph 



THE JOHN CARTER BROWN HOUSE 



Sir Arthur Helps, the historian of The Spanish Conquest in America, 
who in one of the volumes of that work makes a graceful acknowledg- 
ment of the unexampled courtesy which he had thus experienced." 
John Carter Brown, as did his distinguished father, gave liberally 
to Brown University. 

On the death of John Nicholas Brown, son of John Carter Brown, 
the library, valued at more than a million dollars, was left in charge 
of his executors, who were authorized to give the collection — provided 
it remained unbroken and was kept open for the benefit of the public 
— to an educational institution. A hundred and fifty thousand dol- 
lars was set aside for a building in which the library might be placed. 
The great collection was given to Brown University, and is now in 
the John Carter Brown Library. 

The house in which John Carter Brown's Americana were stored 
is on the corner of Power and Benefit Streets. It was built by Joseph 
Nightingale about 1 791 , and in 1 814 Nicholas Brown bought it. This 
house and the John Brown house opposite were the finest mansions 
in Providence at the time they were built, and they are to-day two 
of the finest colonial houses in this country. 

36 




From a photograph by John R. Hess 

THE IVES HOUSE 

Built by a Distinguished Member of the Firm of Broun Is Ives 

At the age of thirteen Thomas Poynton Ives became a clerk in the 
counting-house of Nicholas Brown. Mr. Brown died in 1791; and 
a few years later, having won the respect of those with whom he was 
associated in business, Mr. Ives was taken into partnership with the 
son of his late employer. It has been said of him: "He was foremost 
among the citizens of Providence, an enterprising and sagacious mer- 
chant, a lover of sound learning and pure religion, and a wise and 
prudent counsellor. He was a man of great natural endowments, 
which he cultivated by extensive reading and by acquaintance with 
the leading men of his generation in this country and in foreign lands. 
The name of his mercantile house was known and respected in the 
Orient and throughout the marts of Europe, wherever their ships bore 
in honor the flag of the United States." Mr. Ives married Hope, 
daughter of Nicholas Brown, for whom Hope College was named. 

The house on Power Street was built by Thomas Poynton Ives in 
1816 (by some authorities the date is placed twelve years earlier); and 
it is now occupied by Robert H. Ives Goddard. Near by, at 66 

37 



Old Providence 



\\ illiams Street, is the Edward Carrington house, still owned and 
occupied by descendants of the distinguished Carrington family. 
From this house a splendid view is obtained of the other three houses, — 
the John Carter Brown, John Brown, and Ives houses, — which with 
the Carrington mansion make, it is authentically stated, the most 
beautiful colonial group in this country. It is significant, too, that 
these three families have played a distinguished part in the history 
of Providence. 

To Mr. Robert H. Ives, a descendant of Thomas Poynton Ives, 
ex-Governor Royal C. Taft, for many years president of the Merchants 
Bank, paid the following tribute: "It was my privilege to be closely 
associated with Mr. Robert H. Ives. . . . No one who came in contact 
with Mr. Ives in business matters would fail to be impressed with his 
sagacity and ability, which was universally recognized in this com- 
munity. No advice was more eagerly sought than his in times of 
financial peril. His great influence was freely exerted in promoting 
such measures as were for the best interests of the community, whether 
financial or moral; to meet him was a benediction; among my most 
cherished memories is that I enjoyed his friendship and confidence." 

THE TRUMAN BECKWITH HOUSE 

Truman Beckwith acquired the Larger Part of his Estates after he was 
Seventy Years of Age 

John Greene designed the Truman Beckwith house. It will also 
be remembered that he designed the First Congregational Church, 
the Sullivan Dorr house, the Dexter Asylum, St. John's Church, and 
Mrs. John Carter Brown's house on Benevolent Street. When the 
family of Truman Beckwith learned that he was to build his house at 
the corner of College and Benefit Streets, one of them said, "I can't 
see why Truman wants to build up there in the lots!" The young 
merchant knew his own mind, and built "in the lots." The Handi- 
craft Club occupies the house at the present time. 

Mr. Beckwith, whose span of life was from 1783 to 1878, lived 
most of his life in Providence, though in his earlier years mercantile 
pursuits took him to other cities, — for several years to Savannah, 
where he bought cotton. In these interests he built a hundred years 
ago a cotton warehouse on South Water Street. The following 
year, 181 8, he was one of the men who established the Merchants 
Bank in Providence. Mr. Beckwith pursued varied interests. He 
had some taste for architecture, and was on the Building Committee 
that erected the Dexter Asylum in 1827-28 and on that of the What 
Cheer Building in 1 85 1. He was in the cotton business for fifty-five 
years, and the larger part of his extensive estate was acquired after 
he was seventy years of age. 

38 




owned by 
Miss Louise Diman 



THE STIMSON-DIMAN HOUSE 

Once called "Rose Farm " and the Scene of Parties during the Strawberry 

Season 

Ebenezer Knight Dexter will long be remembered in Providence. 
The Dexter Asylum, the Dexter Training Ground, and the Dexter 
Donation Fund were all the result of his forethought. He was but 
fifty-two years of age when he died. The house, known to-day as 
the Stimson-Diman House, was built between 1799 and 1803 either 
by Ebenezer Knight Dexter or by his father, Knight Dexter, for him. 
Here he resided but a very short time; and the house, after passing 
through the hands of Ebenezer S. Thomas and Dr. Philip Moser, both 
of Charleston, South Carolina, was purchased in 181 1 by Alexander 
Jones, who had been living in Charleston, but who was a graduate 
of Brown University, and had returned to take up his residence in 
Providence. He named his house Bellevue; and, in order that he 
might enjoy the excellent view of Newport on clear days, he had his 
roof arranged in a sort of square, on which was a balustrade with 
chairs. He lived at Bellevue until 1837. 

Mr. John J. Stimson, of Providence, whose grandchildren still 
own the mansion, in 1837 bought the estate, which then consisted of 
a square house, with barns and outbuildings, and about four acres 
of land. Mr. Stimson added a wing on the east side of the house, 

40 



Old Providence 



and changed it into a house suitable for two families. The east side 
with the gardens and barns he kept for himself; while the west side, 
now fronting on Diman Place, he rented. Mr. Stimson was much 
interested in gardening and horticulture. He had a large garden 
and an extensive orchard, in which were all kinds of fruits, including 
pears, apples, cherries, peaches, quinces, as well as strawberries and 
vegetables of all kinds. Loveliest of all was his rose-garden, and, 
because it was so beautiful, the name of the estate was changed 
from Bellevue to Rose Farm; and by the latter name it was known 
for many years, — famous for its roses and for the afternoon and 
evening parties that were held there during the strawberry season. 
There was an old-fashioned summer-house, to which a box-bordered 
path led (shown in the accompanying picture). 

The summer-house was a perfect specimen of the colonial type. 
It was papered inside with landscape paper, representing Alpine 
chalets surrounded with borders of roses. A large glass chandelier for 
candles hung from the centre of the ceiling, and the windows were pro- 
tected by panelled shutters. Here the strawberry festivals were held. 



THE CARRINGTON HOUSE 



From a photograph 




Old Providence 



In i860 Mr. Stimson died, and Mrs. Stimson in 1882, leaving the 
estate to their daughter, who married Professor J. Lewis Diman, of 
Brown University. She made the place her home until her death 
in 1901. The house in 1876 was restored to its original plan, — 
a single house instead of a double one. The front door was again 
placed in the centre in 1887. The photograph shows the house as 
it was in 1853, with the entrance at the southeast corner of the piazza. 
For many years no other house could be seen from the Stimson- 
Diman house, and only two or three between it and Prospect Street 
on one side and the Seekonk River on the other. In 1881 the larger 
part of the old garden was cut up into house lots, and a new street 
laid through, which was called Stimson Avenue. The house to-day 
is on the corner of Angell Street and Diman Place. 




From a photograph 

THE ATHENAEUM 

Scene of Poe's Visits and Possessor of the Costliest Miniature in America 

The real foundation of the Providence Athenaeum was laid in 1753. 
The home of the old Providence Athenseum from 1831 to 1836 was 
in rooms 42 and 44 in the second story of the Arcade. This was also 

42 



Old Providence 



the home of the present institution from 1836 to 1838. Nicholas 
Brown, Moses B. Ives, and Robert H. Ives in 1836 gave the land on 
which the building now stands to the Athenaeum; and they further 
offered $6,000 for the erection of a building, provided $10,000 was 
raised for the same purpose, with an additional $4,000 for books, 
provided the same sum was raised by "societies" (then made up of 
the Athenaeum, Historical, and Franklin Societies). On April 4, 
1837, the ground was broken, and the following May the building 
was begun. The Historical Society did not occupy the room set 
aside for it, and the Franklin Society did not long remain in the 
building. So the Athenaeum came into full possession of the building 
in 1849. 

The Athenaeum has been made a depositary of valuable books, 
as well as the recipient of many book funds and works of art. Among 
the latter are "A Girl reading," by Sir Joshua Reynolds; a portrait 
of Sarah Helen Whitman, by C. G. Thompson; portraits of Zachary 
Taylor, James G. Percival, and Cyrus Butler. The greatest treasure 
is a miniature, — Malbone's "The Hours," said to be not only the 
greatest work of the artist, but also the most valuable miniature 
in America. In 1881 this miniature and several portraits were stolen, 
which places Providence in the list of cities and the Athenaeum 
in the list of galleries that have been visited by robbers of art treasures. 

The pictures were traced to Brooklyn, New York, and were returned 
to the Athenaeum. The miniature, which had been torn from its 
frame, but was otherwise uninjured, was also found. 

In the Athenaeum is an interesting reminder of the days when 
Edgar Allan Poe visited Providence. Dr. H. L. Koopman, librarian 
of Brown University, who is deeply interested in Poe, had heard that 
Mrs. Whitman, to whom Poe was at that time engaged, had expressed 
admiration for an anonymous poem that appeared in the American 
Review in December, 1847. At the time she and Poe were in the Athe- 
naeum, and Mrs. Whitman asked Poe if he had read this poem "Ula- 
lume" and if he knew the author. He answered her questions in the 
affirmative, and acknowledged that he had not only read the poem, 
but had written it. Before leaving the Athenaeum, he signed the 
poem. Dr. Koopman had heard this story, and by way of verifying 
it went to the Athenaeum, and looked up the issue of the American 
Review in which it was supposed to have appeared. The magazine 
was found, and also the signature. 

"The purpose and aim of the Providence Athenaeum," as has been 
stated, "shall be to furnish a home library, larger, better arranged, 
more useful and more attractive than that within the means of any 
individual shareholder; and the scope of its growth, the acquisition 
of books of general literature and other works, publications and peri- 
odicals in literature or art which conduce to general culture, to the 

43 



Old Providence 



exclusion of any publication of a purely technical or professional 
character, which latter shall only be purchased from funds especially 
given for such purpose." 




From a photograph 

THE EDWARD DEXTER HOUSE 
Here lived Colonel Dexter. Famous for his Protracted Lawsuits 

Edward Dexter was born in North Providence, and there lived 
on his mother's farm, near the Pawtucket turnpike, until he was 
sixteen years old. Among his childish recollections were encamp- 
ments of the French troops in Providence and the visits of Lafayette. 
At sixteen he became a clerk in the counting-house of Welcome Arnold, 
a merchant of Providence; and it was his good fortune, while so 
employed, to twice rescue Mr. Arnold from drowning in the harbor, 
where they both were looking out for their shipping. He passed 
through varied experiences after he had gone into business for him- 
self. Fifteen of these years he followed the seas, and was master of 
his own cargoes. He was at Guadeloupe in 1805 when the yellow 
fever, small-pox, and plague destroyed some forty thousand French 

44 



Old Providence 



troops; and, while the troops of France were dying by thousands, 
Edward Dexter remained unscathed. Possibly he decided that he 
had had enough foreign travel, for the following year he stayed at 
home and resumed his business life. 

The house which he built about 1796 is now at 72 Waterman Street, 
and is the residence of Dr. Day. Its first location was on George 
Street, from which it was moved to its present site. In earlier years 
Professor Blake resided in it, and still later Mr. Pendleton, who kept 
there his famous collection of colonial furniture. 

Colonel Dexter from 181 1 to 181 7 was a member of the staff of 
Governor William Jones. He was an able business man, and during 
his career as such owned seventeen different ships, with a partial 
ownership in several others. It is said that he had more lawsuits 
than any other man in Rhode Island. Most of these concerned land, 
and it was a boast of Colonel Dexter that he was always sure that 
he was right before he began litigations. Abraham Payne, in his 
Reminiscences of the Rhode Island Bar, recalls a famous case: "Dexter 
Randall was Col. Edward Dexter's attorney. He was as such uni- 
formly successful. He kept up a protracted litigation with the 
city of Providence for nearly a generation, and gave the Mumford 
meadow a local celebrity not inferior to that of the field of Runny- 
mede, where the barons contended successfully with King John. 
Colonel Dexter had, I think, a life estate in this meadow as tenant 
by courtesy. He brought a suit against the city for turning the 
water upon this land and destroying his crops, and recovered dam- 
ages. He also brought an action against an aqueduct company for 
draining water from the land, and so preventing the growth of his 
crops. . . . After a time counsel and client fell out, and the result 
was a lawsuit between Colonel Dexter and Mr. Randall on an account. 
These accounts covered a period of some 30 years, and embraced 
a great many items. Far back into the past was a charge in Colonel 
Dexter's account of sundry bushels of corn. Upon inquiry by Mr. 
Randall he explained these items in this way. He said that he was 
formerly accustomed to play at whist with Colonel Dexter, Colonel 
Simons, editor of the Republican Herald, and a fourth whose name 
I have forgotten, and that the stakes were bushels of corn. This 
case was referred to John P. Knowles as auditor, who reported a 
large balance in favor of Mr. Randall, who was paid by the executor 
of Mr. Dexter." 

In 1858, when Colonel Dexter had reached his eighty-eighth year, 
he prepared a tin cylinder, in which, after taking precautions to 
protect it from decay, he placed copies of his genealogical chart, 
and ordered that it be buried with his remains in the tomb which 
he erected in the Old North Burying Ground. 

45 




From a photograph 

THE HALSEY MANSION 

Where Wild " Tom," Halsey, Jr., kept Live Terrapins in the Cellar 

Colonel Thomas Lloyd Halsey, who served in the Revolutionary 
War, built in 1801 his house on Prospect Street, a little beyond Barnes. 
His farm lands surrounded it, and stretched as far as Hope Street, 
taking in the land of the Friends' School and the reservoir site. The 
Halsey house is standing to-day, but greatly changed. 

The elder Halsey left a Memorandum that began at the time of 
his "leaving Providence during the Revolutionary War with Great 
Britain in the month of July 1777 to Go with [his] family to France 
as the Agent of the Owners of the Privateers Fitted out by the Mer- 
chants of New England." Colonel Halsey speaks in this Memoran- 
dum of the embarkation of the French troops in December, 1782, on 
the Marquis Vaudreuil squadron in Boston Harbor. "I boxed up 
in pine boxes," he said, "their Arms, made the Officers 400 English 
hammocks. Such was my fatigue Night & Day that very night I 
finished my Labour of Embarkation of the French Arm}' I had my 
Boots cut off my Legs they swelled so much & I went to bed at 
Mr. Joshua Brackets Tavern in School Street & I never moved to make 

46 



Old Providence 



my Bed for 21 days, nor ever left the House till March 25, 1783 & 
I was attended by Dr. Charles Jarvis with great care and success. 
When I left Air. Bracketts on the 25 March, 1783, in Mr. Sam'l Breck's 
chariot I was not able to leave my House 'till near a Month after- 
wards." 

Young Tom Halsey, son of Colonel Halsey, in 181 2 asked the gov- 
ernment at Washington to appoint him consul of the United States 
at Buenos Ayres. The communication which was despatched spoke 
highly of young Halsey, and was signed by many of the leading men 
of Providence. The petition stated that Mr. Halsey spoke fluentlv 
both Spanish and French, that he knew Buenos Ayres well, — for there 
he conducted a mercantile establishment, — and that his character was 
without reproach. 

The cream of the estate and the greater portion of a fortune accu- 
mulated during a lifetime of frugality were left by Colonel Halsey to his 
son. The estate was left to itself for many years, and the master lived in 
Buenos Ayres. Tom Halsey's "later life," said Simon S. Bucklin of 
Bristol, once the secretary of Henry Clay, "was spent in Providence. 
He lived for pleasure only. Abon vivantl No man lived higher than he. 
He loved terrapin soup, and I recollect that he used to keep the live 
terrapins in the cellar of the mansion house on Prospect street." 

The fight over the Halsey will, which disposed of an estate valued 
at about a quarter of a million dollars and claimed by the South 
American heirs of Halsey as well as his daughter who lived in Provi- 
dence, lasted from 1855 — when the case was carried to the highest 
courts — until 1899, three years after the daughter's death. 

A REPRESENTATION OF THE GREAT ('.ALE OF 1815 AT PROVIDENCE 
c oil. of R. I. Hist. Soc. 





From a print 



Coll. of R. I. Hist. Soc. 



THE ARCADE ' 

Said to be the Onlx One at the Present Time in the I ruled States 

The Arcade years ago was the show-place of Providence, — loved by 
the children, boasted of by the citizens, and admired by strangers. 
At the time of its erection in 1827 and 1828 there was scarcely a shop 
or business place of any kind in its vicinity on Westminster Street. 
The business section of the town was then on Water Street and North 
and South Main Streets, then known as Cheapside, where, among 
others, was the firm of Watson & Gladding (now B. H. Gladding & 
Co.) at their shop in "The Sign of the Bunch of Grapes." The firm of 
B. H. Gladding & Co. has the oldest dry-goods store in this country. 
The Arcade is said to have been suggested by the Madeleine of 
Napoleon in Paris, and at the time when it was built several others 
were erected in the United States. The Providence Arcade is said 
to be the only one remaining. It is built of granite, and fronts on 
Westminster Street on the north and Weybosset Street on the south. 

It is still a boast that one of the thirteen columns, each weighing 
twelve tons, and, with the exception of those in the cathedral of St. 
John the Divine, the largest in America, was blasted out of the Bear 
Rock Ledge on the borders of the town of Johnston, and completed 
by the workmen in thirty days. James Olney agreed to haul the mono- 
liths to Providence; and, after constructing a special low gear and 
strengthening the bridge at Olneyville, he guided fifteen yoke of oxen, 
drawing their burden of twelve tons, through the woods. One column 

48 



Old Providence 



was broken in moving; and, after replacing it and getting the twelve 
others into place, the contractor announced that he was practically 
ruined. The broken column now stands on the Field lot in the Old 
North Burying Ground. When six of these pillars had been left 
near the Weybosset Street bridge, the architects of the Arcade, Russell 
Warren and James Bucklin, assisted in placing them. Major Bucklin 
had theoversight of the setting of each one. This task was accom- 
plished in a single day. One man only was hurt when the building 
was constructed; and, during the actual time the work was carried 
on, one man was killed. The Arcade cost $145,000. The east half 
was owned by Cyrus Butler, and the west half by the Arcade Cor- 
poration. 

The fashionable folk of Providence were delighted with the fine 
things found in the Arcade displays, — forerunners of the modern 
department store, — and the shop particularly visited was that of the 
"three sisters," milliners. These sisters were devoted members of 
St. John's Church, and deeply respected in Providence. The story 
is told of a member of that church who returned her bonnet to the 
milliners, asking that the bow on it be "changed to the congregation 
side," as its beauty was wasted on a blank wall. 

At the time of the great September gale the milliners were hastening, 
with a brother who was very ill, from their home on Mathewson 
and Weybosset Streets, when the carriage in which they were taking 
him out of the reach of a rapidly rising tide was overturned, and it 
was with great difficulty that he was rescued from the water. A 
neighbor on her return home, after the flood had subsided, com- 
plained that her parlor carpet was ruined with dead fish and slime, and 
that she found a "little dead swine" on top of her piano! 

The "three sisters," as age was creeping on, sold their shop in the 
Arcade and moved to a rose-covered cottage (of which maybe they 
had dreamed) in the country, where, called familiarly Aunt Ria and 
Aunt Patty, they were the fairy godmothers of the community. 
Many a child climbed their haircloth sofa, read the books so eagerly 
loaned, and sat in their living-room, while marvellous doll's clothes 
were designed from a never-failing supply of scraps of bright-colored 
silks. "Aunt Patty was very lame, — a misstep on the stairs had 
caused this, — so that she seldom went farther than her own garden. 
She was a dear, familiar figure to the villagers, seated on her little 
green wooden stool, weeding, or leaning on her cane to examine some 
of the new blossoms, while the winds played with her soft white 
curls, on either side of her sweet old face. . . . Beneath the front 
steps dwelt a toad, which was very tame, and sat blinking in the 
sun while some child fed it with rose-bugs. ... At last, growing too 
feeble to keep house longer, they moved again to town." 

49 




From <j print 



Coll. of R. I. Hist. Soc. 



THE GREENE STREET SCHOOL 

Associated with Ralph Waldo Emerson and Margaret Fuller 

At the opening of Colonel Hiram Fuller's School on Greene Street, 
Saturday, June 10, 1837, Ralph Waldo Emerson delivered the address 
of dedication, though the papers of the day give little information 
concerning either the speaker or address other than to say that it 
"was transcendental and scarcely intelligible in parts, though some 
portions were much admired.''' His language, according to the report, 
was clothed "in seven-fold mysteries of thrice-wreathed mysticism." 

In this school Margaret Fuller taught, and it was by her and not 
by Colonel Fuller — who was in no way related to her — that Ralph 
Waldo Emerson was persuaded to come to Providence. During the 
period in which she taught in Providence (1837-39) glimpses of the 
life of this remarkable woman — who stimulated in this country the 
study of German literature, was the friend of Emerson, Lowell, 
and Hawthorne, and whose Memoirs after her tragic death were edited 
by Ralph Waldo Emerson, James Freeman Clarke, and William 
Ellery Channing — are caught from the letters she wrote to her friends 
and particularly to her sister. 

In June, 1837, she wrote to Mr. Emerson from Providence: "Con- 
cord, dear Concord, haven of repose, where headache, vertigo, and 
other sins that flesh is heir to, cannot long endure." 

Miss Fuller taught geography, French, Latin, and possibly German 
to the advanced pupils. At the time when she decided to go to 
Providence, she speaks of preferring to write a Life of Goethe. "Yet," 
she adds, "when the thousand petty difficulties which surround us 
are considered, it seems unwise to relinquish immediate indepen- 
dence." This "independence" to her meant a salary of a thousand 
dollars a year. 

5° 



Old Providence 



The Greene Street School — to-day standing in a dilapidated state 
a half-mile from its former situation — in 1837 was at the east corner 
of Washington and Greene Streets, on a site now occupied by a brick 
dwelling-house. Shortly after Colonel Fuller's resignation in 1S42, 
the school was discontinued. Soon afterward the building was re- 
moved to its present location on the southern side of Point Street. 

May Day in 1838 was observed by the Greene Street School, when 
the pupils, led by the king (William B. Gladding) and his aides, and 
the queen (Eliza Hoppin) and her maids of honor, marched from the 
school to "The Grotto" on the Moses Brown farm. The procession 
marched from Greene Street to Westminster Street, across Market 
Square, to Cheapside and Meeting Street and Angell Street. The 
ceremony at "The Grotto" has been described as very effective, and 
immensely enjoyed by the guests who had assembled to witness the 
coronation of the May Day king and queen. Margaret Fuller in 
honor of the occasion composed a song, which was sung to the accom- 
paniment of a flute. The first verse follows: — 

"O, blessed be this sweet May day, 

The fairest of the year, 
The birds are heard from every spray, 

And the blue sky smiles so clear; 
White blossoms deck the apple-tree, 

Blue violets the plain; 
Their fragrance tells the wilding bee 

That spring is come again. 
We'll cull the blossoms from the bough, 

Where robins gaily sing, 
We'll wreath them for our queen's pure brow, 

We'll wreath them for our king." 

THE AUTON HOUSE 

Where Thomas Cole Hoppin brought up his Famous Family 

"My mother," says Augustus Hoppin in his Recollections of Auton 
House, "had twelve Auton-babies. One failed to attain maturity, 
and that left eleven. They arrived in the following order: J. Auton, 
A. Auton (girl), T. Auton, S. Auton (girl), F. Auton, H. Auton, 
E. Auton (girl), W. Auton, A. Auton, H. Auton (girl), C. Auton." 

Auton is a Greek word, meaning self, and used by Mr. Hoppin 
in the sense of ourselves. As such he chose to designate his family. 
No lover of Providence history should fail to read his book, which is 
as interesting and as thoroughly charming as the story of the Alcott 
family of Concord. It requires a considerable stretch of the imagina- 
tion, when the stranger to-day views the Auton House at the upper 
corner of Westminster and Walnut Streets, to place it in the midst of 

5i 





From a photograph 



THE AUTON HOUSE 



spacious grounds. It is now in the heart of the commercial district, 
and is the home of the Providence Wall Paper Company. "It was 
built," according to information given by Mr. William W. Chapin, 
"in 1807 by Isaac Greenwood, who removed to Boston in 18 10, 
first advertising his house for sale, and saying in the advertisement 
that it had been built three years before. The house was bought by 
Benjamin Hoppin, brother of Thomas C. ; and in 181 5 Benjamin 
conveyed it to Thomas C. The family occupied it until the death 
of Mrs. Hoppin in 1874. The interior of the house has been changed 

52 



Old Providence 



beyond recognition, except that in the shop of the Providence Wall 
Paper Company there remains the original fan-light over what were 
old-fashioned folding doors — not sliding doors — separating the two 
parlors when desired." 

The eldest "Auton" child was William Jones Hoppin, who was 
named for his maternal grandfather, — William Jones,- — from 1811 to 
1817 the Governor-of Rhode Island. William Hoppin practised law 
in New York City. For ten years he was engaged in diplomatic 
service. His brother, — the second "Auton" child, — Thomas F. 
Hoppin, was an artist, pupil of the famous Paul Delaroche; and 
among his notable works are the chancel windows depicting the 
four evangelists in Trinity Church, New York City. He also cast 
the bronze dog that now stands in Roger Williams Park. This 
dog formerly stood near the Auton House. It is said to be the first 
production of this type of art in America, and the first bronze statue 
to be cast in Rhode Island. Among the other Hoppin brothers were 
well-known physicians and architects. The girls were socially 
prominent in Providence. And the entire family was successful in 
its varied pursuits, some of its members attaining an international 
prominence. 

Augustus Hoppin, besides publishing a goodly number of books, 
won distinction as an illustrator. Among his best works are the 
illustrations of the original edition of Oliver Wendell Holmes's 
Autocrat of the Breakfast Table, published in 1858. 

If Augustus Hoppin were to be entirely forgotten, — which is far 
from probable, — it might be ardently wished that the fragment of 
the Recollections of Auton House wherein is described his mother 
might remain: "Mother Auton never would sit at a desk," he says. 
"Neither 'secretary' nor 'davenport' suited her purpose. The 
little gifts presented to her from time to time, and admirably adapted 
to write at were always gratefully accepted, but never used. She 
took her writing materials on her broad, motherly lap, pushed her 
cap-strings from her face, adjusted her gold spectacles over her ample 
nose, dipped her pen daintily in the ink (just enough to fill it without 
blotting), and away it ran so merrily and easily over the paper that 
she would be on her fourth page before we children, who were seated 
around her, had half gotten through sucking our oranges. People 
write letters now, lots of them, heaps of them; but I very much doubt 
whether they contain one-half the valuable news, the harmless gossip, 
the genial spirit, which flowed so readily from Mother Auton's pen. 

"There she sat in her chair every Sunday morning for over forty 
years, writing the weekly epistle, with bended head and benign ex- 
pression, while the wood fire hissed and sputtered, and the old canary 
sang in the sunlight." 

53 




From a photograph 



THE SULLIVAN DORR HOUSE 
Here lived Thomas Wilson Dorr, Leader of the Dorr War 

Thomas W. Dorr at the time of his efforts to reform suffrage in the 
State of Rhode Island was comparatively a young man, on the sunny 
side of forty. He had been elected Governor of Rhode Island under 
what was known as "the people's Constitution." He and his 
followers, who were known as "Dorrites," formed a camp at Federal 
Hill, where they met on May 17, 1842, and from which they marched 
to the armory, then in the rear of the present court-house. They 
procured two guns, and went back to camp again. In the mean time 
a "law and order" party was gathered, which, though it would have 
benefited from exactly what Thomas Dorr through forcible means 
was trying to procure, nevertheless was ready to stand by the State, 
suffrage or no suffrage. 

Orders had been issued for the military companies opposing Dorr 
to turn out when they heard the bells tolling. The signal was given, 
and the men proceeded to the arsenal. The Dorrites were before 
them — with guns. Governor Dorr attempted to fire one of them — 
and failed. This incident calls to mind a verse from one of the two 
pieces of literature called forth by the events of 1842: — 

54 



Old Providence 



"The impatient chief looked on with ire, 
Blanched was his cheek, but tenfold fire 

Was flashing in his eye. 
He threw his martial cloak aside, 
And waddling up, — he meant to stride, — 
'Give me the torch,' with fury cried, 
'And d — it, let me try!'" 

The large force gathered to oppose him awed Dorr and his company, 
and they dispersed. Re-enforcements were given the "law and order" 
party on the following morning. A company of infantry and cadets 
- — in all seven hundred men — marched to the Dorr camp, and de- 
manded that they surrender. This was done, and Governor Dorr 
left the State. Another attempt was made by his party when they 
formed a camp several miles from Providence, at Acote's Hill. The 
measures taken by the State were then more rigorous, and Dorr was 
brought back to the city, tried for treason, and sentenced. A few 
years before his death he was liberated, and passed the rest of his life 
in retirement at the Dorr mansion on Benefit Street. His death 
occurred on December 27, 1854. A plain marble slab marks his 
resting-place in Swan Point Cemetery. 

The Dorr mansion was built in 1809-10 by Sullivan Dorr, father 
of Thomas Dorr. John H. Greene was the designer. It is said to 
have been built on the model of Pope's villa at Twickenham. "The 
Sullivan Dorr house," says Miss Kimball, "has a remarkably beautiful 
staircase. Its mural decorations are probably unique among the 
Rhode Island houses. They extend along the upper and lower halls, 
and the drawing-room, above the low wainscoting, and are the work 
of a Neapolitan artist, who visited Providence in 1810. 

At the rear of the mansion is a monument marking the grave of 
Williams and six members of his family, on the original home lot of 
the founder of Providence. The location of the grave from the time 
of Williams's death in 1683 until i860 w^as unmarked, and for many 
years it was not known. When the grave was finally opened, neither 
the coffin nor the remains were found. The rootof an apple-tree had 
apparently twined itself around the body of Williams, following his 
backbone and branching off at his hips and legs until it reached the 
toes. The root was carefully dug up, and preserved. 



55 



Old Providence 



OLD HOWARD HALL 

Where Thackeray lectured and Jenny hind sang 

Thackeray, when he lectured in Providence in 1853, said that, 
when he was a pupil at the Charter-house School, he found, cut on a 
beam there, "R. W.," probably the work of Roger Williams when he 
was a boy. If all reports are true, Thackeray was not well received 
in Providence; that is, so far as entertainment is concerned. Howard 
Hall, where he delivered his lecture on Swift, was crowded, and great 
attention given the lecturer. "We understand," says the Providence 
Journal, "that it was the largest audience that he ever addressed." 
Nevertheless, there was something lacking. Eyre Crowe, Thack- 
eray's private secretary, recalls the Providence trip: "The journey was 
easy, the audience large and appreciative. This was on Dec. 22, 
when the nights were getting chilly. It was, therefore, a little rough 
upon those fond of their cheerful cigar to be compelled, as most of 
them were, to content themselves with a discussion on the benefits 
conferred upon the State by liquor laws prohibiting the sale of alcoholic 
drinks. Everybody, I noticed, went to bed early. I only sketched 
a pair of bluchers whose shadow was cast upon the sleeper's room 
door outside of the hotel. I can therefore only mention Providence 
apropos de bottes." 

Many celebrities appeared at Howard Hall. Wendell Phillips lectured 
there, also Daniel Webster, Henry Ward Beecher, Charles Sumner, Arte- 
mus Ward, John G. Saxe, George William Curtis, Bayard Taylor, and 
Edgar Allan Poe. On January 4, 1854, William Lloyd Garrison lectured, 
and on January 31 of the same year Sam Houston. Tom Thumb and 
his wife made a farewell appearance there in 1876. Twenty-one years 
prior to this Adelina Patti sang. Ole Bull played there. 

Perhaps the most noteworthy event which occurred in Old Howard 
Hall (the first building was erected in 1847, and destroyed November 
: 5? 1853) was a concert given by Jenny Lind. The hall was too small 
to accommodate the persons who wished to attend the concert. 
Forbes's Museum, which was close to the hall, received a part of the 
immense crowd that waited for seats; and from its windows where 
the people were seated the singer was heard very well. Jenny Lind 
was given a tremendous greeting in Providence, and it was here that 
a seat in the Old Howard Hall brought the record price paid in Amer- 
ica. New York had sold a seat as high as $225; Boston, $625; Phila- 
delphia, $625; New Orleans, $240; but a Providence man paid $653 
for his seat. So pleased was the singer with the compliment that she 
autographed the ticket. 

After the first building was burned in 1853, a second was erected on 
the same spot in 1854. This eventually gave way to the present Howard 
Building on the same site, Westminster and Dorrance Streets. 

56 




(i photograph 



THE WHITMAN HOUSE 
Here Edgar Allan Poe zcooed Sarah Helen Whitman 

Edgar Allan Poe lectured in Providence, visited Providence, carried 
on his courtship with Mrs. Whitman in Providence, and, if all ac- 
counts may be credited, left a part of his heart in Providence. His 
first appearance occurred during a trip from Boston to New York in 
the year 1845. 

It was a moonlight night, and very warm. Poe was wandering 
about the streets, and in the garden of her Benefit Street home he saw 
Mrs. Whitman, who eventually became his betrothed and by whom 
two of his loveliest poems — "To Helen" and "Annabel Lee" — were 
inspired. 

"I saw thee once — once only — years ago: 
I must not say how many — but not many. 
It was a July midnight; and from out 
A full-orbed moon, that, like thine own soul, soaring, 
Sought a precipitate pathway up through heaven, 
There fell a silvery silken veil of light, 
With quietude, and sultriness, and slumber, 

57 



Old Providence 



Upon the upturn'd faces of a thousand 

Roses that grew in an enchanted garden. . . . 

Clad all in white, upon a violet bank 

I saw thee half reclining; while the moon 

Fell on the upturn'd faces of the roses, 

And on thine own, upturn'd — alas, in sorrow!" 

Some three years after Poe's soul had been stirred so deeply, he 
met Mrs. Whitman, and during a walk to the Swan Point Cemetery 
he asked her to marry him. It was in November, 1848, that the 
daguerreotype, which is considered one of Poe's best likenesses, was 
made by S. W. Hartshorn, of Providence. This picture Poe gave to 
Mrs. Whitman, who valued it highly. It is now the property of 
Brown University. 

The story of the broken engagement has been told and retold. The 
poet had promised Mrs. Whitman that he would not drink again, and 
he broke his promise. This occurred two days before the date set 
for the wedding. In vain Poe pleaded, in vain he tried to win her 
back. Yet, in spite of the estrangement, Mrs. Whitman was abso- 
lutely true to the poet's memory, some of her finest verses were in- 
spired by him, and on every occasion she was his defender. In 1859 
she published Edgar Poe and his Critics. Of this Curtis wrote in 
Harper s Weekly: "In reading the exquisitely tender, subtle, sympa- 
thetic, and profoundly appreciative sketch of Edgar Poe, which has 
just been issued under this title, it is impossible not to remember the 
brave woman's arm thrust through the slide to serve as a bolt against 
the enemy. . . . The author with an inexpressible grace, reserve, and 
tender, heroic charity — having a right which no other person has to 
speak — tells in a simple, transparent, and quiet strain what she thinks 
of his career and genius." 

It was at the Whitman house, on the northwest corner of Church 
and Benefit Streets, that Poe spent many of his happiest hours, and 
one of his saddest hours as well. And it was here that Sarah Helen 
Whitman lived on, and wrote the inexpressibly beautiful things that 
have lived after her, among them her pen portrait of Edgar Allan Poe, 
the first and second stanzas of which follow: — 

"After long years I raised the folds concealing 
That face, magnetic as the morning's beam: 
While slumbering memory thrilled at its revealing, 
Like Memnon waking from his marble dream. 

"Again I saw the brow's translucent pallor, 
The dark hair floating o'er it like a plume; 
The sweet imperious mouth, whose haughty valor 
Defied all portents of impending doom." 

58 



Old Providence 



HOPE COLLEGE 

Among the many notable graduates of Brozvn University teas John Hay, 
zvho with John G. Nicolay was private secretary and biographer of Lincoln 

"Where'er afar the beck of fate shall call us, 
'Mid winter's boreal chill or summer's blaze, 
Fond memory's chain of flowers shall still enthrall us, 

Wreathed by the spirits of these vanished days: 
Our hearts shall bear them safe through life's commotion; 

Their fading gleam shall light us to our graves; 
As in the shell the memories of ocean 

Murmur forever of the sounding waves." 

From Hay's Class Poem. Read June 10, 1858. 

Of this class poem, nearly a half-century after John Hay delivered it, 
William Dean Howells wrote: "To say it was a class poem is suffi- 
ciently to characterize it, perhaps; and to add that it was easily better 
than most class poems is not to praise it overmuch. There was the 
graceful handling of a familiar measure, and the easy mastery of the 
forms which a young writer's reading makes his second nature; but 
it was more than commonly representative of the poet's own thinking 
and feeling. There was a security of touch in it, though there was not 
yet the maturity which early characterized his prose, and which is 
present in a marked degree in his paper on Ellsworth, the young 
captain of Zouaves who fell in the first months of the Civil War." 

Providence is rich in literary associations. William Dean Howells 
in his young manhood came here, though it is not true — as is some- 
what generally believed— that he here won Elinor Mead. Both he 
and Mrs. Howells were guests in Providence after their marriage; and, 
on Broadway, a little above Jackson Street, stands the house, removed 
from its previous location, where he and Mrs. Howells were frequent 
guests. Nora Perry, who achieved some distinction as a poet, lived 
in Providence. Here, it is said, James Fenimore Cooper wrote in the 
Slater mansion a part of The Red Rover. 

It may have been during his years as student at Brown University 
that John Hay cherished the idea of being a poet. He came to 
Providence in the fall of 1855, and took quarters assigned to him in 
University Hall. With great brown eyes and a shock of auburn hair, 
he must have been an attractive lad. There seems to have been a 
general opinion that he tucked his books at night under his pillow, and 
let the contents of them sink in, for he never was caught studying to 
any great extent, but was first in his classes. As an upper classman at 
the university, he met many of the literary men and women of t he- 
time, among them Mrs. Whitman, whom he greatly admired, also 
Nora Perry. The latter years of his student life were spent at room 
44 in Hope College. 

59 



Old Providence 



John Hay was generally respected and loved by his fellow-students. 
There was a gentle courtesy in his attitude toward those he met, and 
a modesty, which made his personality a singularly interesting one. 
And, in his turn, Hay loved Providence. "If you loved Providence," 
he wrote to Nora Perry after his graduation from Brown University, 
"as I do, you would congratulate yourself hourly upon your lot. I 
turn my eyes Eastward, like an Islamite, when I feel prayerful. The 
city of Wayland and Williams, that smiles upon its beauty glassed in 
the still mirror of the Narragansett waves, is shrined in my memory 
as a far-off, mystical Eden, where the women were lovely and spirit- 
uelle, and the men were jolly and brave; where I used to haunt the 
rooms of the Athenaeum, made holy by the presence of the royal dead; 
where I used to pay furtive visits to Forbes' forbidden mysteries (peace 
to its ashes!); where I used to eat Hasheesh and dream dreams. My 
life will not be utterly desolate while memory is left me, and while I 
may recall the free pleasures of the student-time; pleasures in which 
there was no taint of selfishness commingled, and which lost half their 
sin in losing all their grossness. Day is not more different from night 
than they were from the wild excesses of the youth of this barbarian 
West." 

Of this life which dreamed its youthful dreams in and was nurtured 
by Brown University, Providence is justly proud. 

THE HOPPIN MANSION 

Where President Hayes was entertained when he visited Providence in i8jj 

The Presidential salute, fired as the special train bearing Rutherford 
B. Hayes, Mrs. Hayes, and suite, passed from Massachusetts into 
Rhode Island, was the State tribute paid to the Chief Executive when 
he visited Providence on June 28, 1877. The Presidential party had 
been met at Mansfield by the Rhode Island Legislative Committee, 
of which Senator P. E. Tillinghast was the chairman. Throngs had 
gathered all along the way; and to these President Hayes responded 
from the rear car, as his train moved slowly toward Providence, where 
General Burnside and the veterans of the Civil War escorted the 
President to the Hoppin mansion at the northeast corner of Benefit 
and John Streets. 

Governor Van Zandt greeted President Hayes. " It is my privilege," 
he said, "to welcome you to the State of Rhode Island, to our hospi- 
talities, to our halls, to our homes, and we can only regret that the 
period of your visit is necessarily so brief that it will not enable us to 
show you the utilitarian interests of our State, its vast manufactories, 
its agricultural products, or internal beauties, to which we as Rhode 
Islanders are so much attached. But, sir, we pray Heaven will crown 
the days of your stay among us with sunshine, and we will endeavor 

60 




From a photograph 



THE HOI'PIX MANSION 



to strew it with flowers. I welcome you, sir, in the name of the State, 
and no words of mine can add anything to the eloquence that you 
will see in the eyes and read in the faces and hear in the voices of all 
our men, women, and children as you move along our crowded thor- 
oughfares. I welcome you, sir, most cordially." 

"Governor," responded President Hayes, "all of the people of the 
United States know something of the little State of Rhode Island; 
something of its past; something of what it is. I am sure that you 
will understand me when I say that this welcome and this reception 
are very gratifying to me. Not that I understand it to be on per- 
sonal accounts, but because Rhode Island believes, as I do, in one of 
the great sentiments of New England's great statesmen and orators, 
which I was reminded of at the ancient town of Attleboro. An old 
citizen of the town handed me a note in which he said that the reason 
the people of Attleboro turned out to give me a hearty greeting was 
that the people believed in the sentiment I have alluded to [of Webster], 
a sentiment which I am sure you will agree with, and one that the 
Government of the United States should not forget — should always 
remember: ' We have one country, one constitution, one destiny!" 

62 



Old Providence 



The mansion at the northeast corner of Benefit and John Streets 
in which President Hayes was entertained was built about 1833 by 
Thomas F. Hoppin. A reception followed the arrival of the President, 
after which Mr. Hayes and his party were taken to a boat for Rocky 
Point, where a clam-bake had been prepared and where twenty 
thousand people assembled. 

The most magnificent event up to this time which Rhode Island had 
experienced was the reception given in the evening at the Hoppin 
mansion. Benefit Street was brilliantly lighted, and the sidewalks 
and driveways leading to the stately mansion were thronged with 
people who had gathered to pay their tribute to Mr. and Mrs. Hayes. 

On the following day, Friday, June 29, a holiday was proclaimed; 
and twelve hundred school-children assembled in the Academy of 
Music, and there gave a concert, which the President and his party 
attended. The most touching tribute of his visit was paid when, 
as he was leaving the hall, children from the balcony showered him 
with roses. Many times afterward President Hayes mentioned this 
event as one of his pleasantest recollections. General Washington, it 
will be remembered, had been similarly affected by the children of 
Providence. After the concert, President Hayes reviewed the Rhode 
Island militia on the Dexter Training Ground, from which the troops 
escorted him to the Executive Mansion on the hill. 

The Providence-Stonington Company had given the use of their 
new steamer, the Massachusetts, for the trip which President Hayes was 
to make to Newport. From two to three hundred guests were in the 
party. As the steamer passed the United States Torpedo Station, a 
salute was fired, while at the same time the guns from Fort Adams 
thundered the Presidential salute. 



LANDING OF FRENCH 
RHODE ISLAND, 

From an old 

Coll. of 




REINFORCEMENTS IN 

JULY 11. 1780 

engraving 
Robert W. Ta/t 



BIBLIOGRAPHY 



The following authorities and books have been consulted in the 
preparation of this work: 

Annals of the Town of Providence from Its First Settlement to the Organization 
of the City Government in June, 1832, William R. Staples. 

State of Rhode Island and Providence Plantations at the End of the Century: A 
History, edited by Edward Field. 

History of Providence County, Rhode Island, edited by Richard M. Bayles. 

History of the State of Rhode Island and Providence Plantations, Samuel Greene 
Arnold. 

Early History of Brown University, including the Life, Times, and Correspond- 
ence of President Manning, 1756-17QI, Reuben Aldridge Guild. 

Providence in Colonial Times, Gertrude Selwyn Kimball. 

The Pictorial Field Book of the Revolution, or Illustrations, by Pen and Pencil, of 
the History, Biography, Scenery, Relics, and Traditions of the War for Inde- 
pendence, Benson J. Lossing. 

The Mother Church, Reuben Aldridge King. 

An Old New England Meeting House, Augustus Mendon Lord. 

Early Rhode Island Houses, Norman M. Isham and Albert F. Brown. 

Margaret Fuller Ossoli, Thomas Wentworth Higginson. 

Memoirs of Margaret Fuller Ossoh. 

Poe's Helen, Caroline Ticknor. 

Recollections of Auto n House, Augustus Hoppin. 

Roger Williams, May Emery Hall. 

Some Interesting Boston Events, State Street Trust Company. 

Centennial of the Providence National Bank. 

Stephen Hopkins, a Rhode Island Statesman. A Study in the Political History 
of the Eighteenth Century, William E. Foster. 

Esek Hopkins, Commander-in-Chief of the Continental Navy during the American 
Revolution, 1775 to 1778. Master Mariner, Politician, Brigadier General, 
Naval Officer, and Philanthropist, Edward Field. 

Diary of John Adams. 

Memoirs of His Own Time; including the Revolution, the Empire, and the 
Restoration, Lieut. Gen. Count Mathieu Dumas. 

Memoirs and Recollections of Count Segur, Ambassador from France to the Courts 
of Russia and Prussia, etc., written by himself. 

Dexter Genealogy: Being a Record of the Families descended from Rev. Gregory 
Dexter; with Notes and Biographical Sketches of each Parent, S. C. Newman. 

Reminiscences of the Rhode Island Bar, Abraham Payne. 

The Providence Plantations for Two Hundred and Fifty Years, Welcome Arnold 
Greene. 

Kings Pocket-Book of Providence, R.I., Moses King. 

Some Interesting Associations connected with the Library Site and its Neighbor- 
hood, William E. Foster (MS.). 

64 



The Complete Poetical Works of John Hay, including Many Poems now first 
collected. With an Introduction by Clarence L. Hay. 

The Life and Letters of John Hay, William Roscoe Thayer. 

John Hay, Author and Statesman, Lorenzo Sears. 

Cenealogy of the Family of Jonathan Arnold of Smithfield, Rhode Island, William 
W. Chapin (MS.). 

Thomas Lloyd Ilalsey's Account of his Part in the Revolution, — from the original 
document (copied by W. W. Chapin) in the possession of C. W. Bowen 
(the MS. copy in the possession of the Rhode Island Historical Society). 

Biographical Cyclopedia of Rhode Island. 

Sixty-sixth Annual Report of the Board of Directors of the Providence Athenaeum 
to the Corporation. 

Report of Committee on Marking Historical Sites in Rhode Island made to the 
General Assembly at its January Session, 1913. 

Points of Historical Interest in the State of Rhode Island, Department of 
Education. 

Publications of the Rhode Island Historical Society. 

Narragansett Historical Register, Providence Magazine, Brown Alumni Maga- 
zine, New England Magazine, Harper's Weekly, Bankers Magazine, 
Bulletin of the National Association of Wool Manufacturers, Architectural 
Record, Providence Journal, Providence Tribune, Providence Evening Tele- 
gram, Providence Press, Providence Gazette, Morning Star, Mercury, 
Boston Herald, New York Tribune, Pennsylvania Packet. 

The compiler desires to acknowledge his indebtedness to the Provi- 
dence Public Library, to the Rhode Island Historical Society and to 
Miss Louise Diman. Miss Diman kindly furnished the data on the 
Stimson-Diman house. 



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